EARLY 1950’S HOME-CRAFTED ACCESSORIES FOR THE NEW CASUAL LOOK. FINGERTIPS TO TOE . . .

Big decorated tote bags! These are often associated with the 1960’s, but the trend started long before. Whimsical, cute, pretty; whatever your fancy. Big skirts of hand-woven material; how Boho of you! This called for home-made colorful ankle-wrap sandals, designed to match your outfits – a bit of throw-back to 1940’s styles.

As always in mid-century magazines, the pages are also filled with special-interest advertisements and mail-order offers. Women were constantly encouraged to go into home-based business selling accessories and home-assembled items which they could start with a kit by mail or correspondence course – early front-runners to today’s online marketing.

While time and culture kept marching forward, we can continue to see the reluctance to give up previous ways of being and doing things. Just like today, there were big leaps forward that surprised everyone alternating with slow-grinding incremental change that almost seemed like no change at all. However, also like today, it was accelerating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

DRESS IT UP OR DOWN – A MID-CENTURY SWEATER-BLOUSE COULD BE MANY THINGS

Sportswear, day outfits, professional attire, dress-up events – you name it. Beaded or ribbed, plain or patterned; the combinations were endless and all set off that full skirt to perfection. Many would also look great with your Capri’ pants, a straight skirt or even short shorts.

Of course, some needed special accessories . . . . . . . . . .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

ELEGANT, WARM AND HUMANE TRUE VINTAGE OUTERWEAR FOR A FORMAL OCCASION

Evenings are still cold enough to require a warm coat or jacket over formalwear. A blonde faux mink jacket fills the bill and masquerades beautifully. As a great example of mid-century faux furs, this one appears genuine until the closest examination is made.

Styled and tailored as the best furs have always been, this jacket has a full cut, wide collar, cuffs, slash pockets and decorative buttons. A silky full lining covers you inside. The only break with pure vegan construction is a strip of what I believe is leather that faces the front closure on each side. To the credit of the maker, this addition does a good job of strengthening the foundation for the buttons and buttonholes (super important!) and helps the jacket to fall correctly. Now there are ways of accomplishing this with vegan materials.

Again, this coat demonstrates the garment industry’s post-war/mid-century efforts to make the type of wardrobe items which were formerly luxury goods become available to women of the middle classes. Today this trend has continued to build in many segments of wardrobe manufacture i.e. shoes, handbags and sachels/briefcases as well as cosmetics and personal care products which used to be made wholly or in part of substances harvested from animals (fur, skins, leather, whale oil, wool, lanolin, and more). Humane culture is finally becoming mainstream. How Woke of us!

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

AS PROMISED, THE SISTER FROCK TO THE DRESS SHOWN YESTERDAY. POST-WAR 1940’S TAILORED FOR A SOCIALITE.

No ifs, ands or buts about going to a fancy event this time. Also from Montevideo, Uruguay, it belonged to a woman who was or was posing as a member of “society”. This frock has a huge amount of glitzy embellishment both front and back, but what better way to hide in plain sight? Very pretty, and it’s all hand-done. There is a label from “Mae’s” but I still suspect a small tailoring business, unless this was a toney department store that had it’s own tailoring department. The suspect or agent in this case had access to money and obviously had “help” or a very loving and patient partner. Can you imagine any other way to manage all those close-together buttons in back? (Hey, Mae’s, looks like you could have gotten zippers from Argentina instead! See yesterday’s post)

The very 1940’s style details are evident – big shoulders, midi hem length, below-elbow sleeves with shaping detail and that bizarre stuff going on at the hip-line. Unless it’s on the right figure, it’s pretty gruesome but Stella can wear anything. This dress has a very different cut from the one shown yesterday. It may have been made for a different woman but I suspect the measurements have more to do with the style of the dress. The padded shoulders, naturally, are wider but so is the bustline. The hips are narrower. My best guess is that this was done to balance out all the pleating on the hips and keep our heroine from looking bottom-heavy.

It’s a little tired from long-term storage but we know what a good drycleaner’s can do in a jiffy. Stay tuned for stepping into the 1950’s . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

A LADIES WAR-TIME EARRINGS AND BROOCH JEWELRY SET FROM 1940

This set reflects very well the resourcefulness of war-time women and their suppliers in the fashion trade. The availability of metals was restricted, if not yet rationed in 1940. Why not use a hardening and preserving process to manufacture beautiful pieces from natural leaves? The brooch might even have a loop behind for hanging on a chain as a necklace, which was often done. Of course, we’ve seen similar jewelry in the commercial market for the past 3 or 4 decades but this must have been a new or rarely-used technique back in the day. Looks like copper was part of the witch’s brew used here.

Just love it when a lady (investigator, victim or witness? . . . . . .) made notes about the evidence which we sleuths can use in the future and kept the original packaging. Perfect clue . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . …

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

OH, MY. HOW COULD I POSSIBLY PART WITH THIS 1940’S CAPE – COAT?

Oh, well. It won’t take up much room (excepting for those shoulder pads!) Once I tried it on again, there was no question. It’s even got pockets! Easy wear over slacks as well as eveningwear (and jeans). We’re almost done with the coat closet. Stay tuned.

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

UH – OH! ANOTHER MID-CENTURY SWING COAT THAT I CANNOT PART WITH . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

OK. I had very good intentions to clear out the evidence locker but, sometimes, a file turns up in the vetting which just has too much forensic value to let go. What features of this garment are important? 1. The nubby texture of the wool fabric is unusual and adds warmth 2. 3/4 length is very comfortable, stylish and convenient 3. Bracelet length sleeves look great with gloves and make it easier to read my watch 4. The plastic buttons have a few of the nubs that are faceted and reflect light like little crystals – BRILLIANT! 5 It was sold in one of my favorite vintage-era department stores 6. Silky black lining is perfection 7. The wide lapels are perfect for displaying my collection of vintage brooches 8. It fits me beautifully.

There. No one can argue with that logic. The project goes on. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

OPEN-FRONT COAT FROM THE FIFTIES OR EARLY SIXTIES

This is a casual coat from post-WWII mid-century that closes with one hidden button and loop at the waistline. It’s got specialized tailoring details that are my favorite part. The wool fabric is a great “tweed” with fall colors, so a good choice for September. The brown lining is shiny and silky but it’s also got a decorative border above the hem that is embroidered in glossy brown thread. Hidden, but pretty!

See above how the pockets are accented with fabric-covered buckles that don’t do anything but look smart. Unfortunately, the pockets are only deep enough for a tissue or a small coin-purse, but that’s OK. I’ll enjoy wearing it on walks and I can still stop at the corner store. The neckline area, just above the collarbones, is accented with tabs and buttons which also don’t do anything but look stylish. And, the back vent in the hemline is practical but adds the look of good design. A winner!

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

V IS FOR VINTAGE AND ALSO FOR VEGAN. VEGAN CLOTHING RESOURCE LIST – JUST POSTED

Yes, V is for Vintage and also for Vegan. Just posted new intelligence on my Twitter account about a list of companies that sell vegan clothing items and accessories. This is a fabulous tool since it can be difficult to source those things successfully without insider information. The list is recommended and approved by PETA (People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals) which has high standards for the credentials of any company they will include. Companies on the list should also have a label on each garment, shoe, etc. which reflects the PETA approval – PETA-APPROVED VEGAN. This resource makes it much easier for those of us who love all creatures to shop with a clear conscience and the goal of improving the ethical standards of the worldwide marketplace.

Alas, many true vintage wardrobe items were not made in ways which we would call humane today, but their quality, beauty and historical value are still unsurpassed by the things which are manufactured now. If we support the modern market for humane and sustainable goods, we can continue to enjoy clothing and accessories from bygone eras without worry for as long they last. As we humans continue to attain higher consciousness and grow in our compassion and understanding, as well as the technical ability to produce goods of high quality in a sustainable way, it is my vision that this gap will be closed. Kudos to PETA for helping us to get there and can’t wait!

By the way, my archive clean-out is about to begin. Watch for coming posts and stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

CLASSIC MID-CENTURY DRESSY-CASUAL LEATHER JACKET

From about the late 1950’s to the mid-1970’s a classic jacket like this one would go almost anywhere, day or evening, over your slacks, skirt or dress. Not meant for formal wear, but always part of a “well-dressed” woman’s wardrobe. Leather items were considered to be “quality” garments. Well-crafted and elegant in style, outerwear like this replaced the previous “car coat” when longer hemlines were not the daily standard anymore.

We’ve continued to love leather jackets of various styles over the decades since the “bomber jacket”, developed by the military during WW1, became popular as a fashion item after the 1940’s. Although it requires some extra care, properly tanned leather is durable and maintains its good looks. Now, however, we are better-informed about how leather for clothing is produced and have the dilemma of choosing to go vegan in our clothing selections. As you know, I’ve made my choice.

Less vulnerable to the elements than fur, my leather jackets will continue to serve me for the rest of my life if I look after them. I’ll probably never have to make the choice between authentic and faux leather. True vintage leather garments and accessories made before 1980 are investments and still an ethical choice.

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM