Tag Archives: find

NOT TO BE OUTDONE, EVEN BY THEMSELVES, 1960’S KNITTING STARS TOOK ON MAKING THEIR OWN SPRING COATS

Harking back to 1950’s styles, or with Swiss, Italian and British style inspiration and yarns, intrepid needlecrafters went for it. In the spirit of Jacqueline Kennedy’s famous cloth coats in elegant designs by Oleg Cassini, home-knitters made coats with European and designer style. Even the two white Fifties-inspired designs at top were au courant with an open front or cruelty-free collar which looks like an animal skin (although we know that wool, including knitting yarn, IS fur and is NOT cruelty-free).

I especially like the cape with matching skirt and high-neck sweater. Worthy of Sherlock Holmes, himself, with it’s identity-concealing, equipment-hiding capabilities. A sleuth can swan around undercover, looking like a brainless fashion-plate . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

NEVER-BEFORE-SEEN FRENCH WOMEN’S CLOTHING STYLES HIT THE SCENE IN THE EARLY TO MID-1960’S

Pants, skirts and culottes! Very avant garde for the U.S. But, ladies with knitting needles were not timid and the pattern magazines spurred them on. No one can say that “American” women didn’t avidly follow European high fashion. Investigators have long known that, wherever we are, successful sleuthing depends on being able to blend in. (Must be cautious about calling people from the U.S. Americans, as if we’re the only ones. People from Mexico, Central and South America also identify themselves as American).

The photos I publish are all from vintage McCall’s Needlework and Crafts magazines, an offshoot of the well-known and popular McCall’s women’s magazine that published monthly from 1873 to 2002.

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

“CAMELOT” CHANGED EVERYTHING

Right around 1960, when the Kennedys stepped foot into the White House, women’s fashion underwent a major change. Jacqueline Kennedy’s elegant and modern simplicity of dress was a powerful influencer of women’s fashion. See the changes here from top to bottom, left to right. Conservative styles, old standards like the nautical themes and midi lengths phased out or disappeared. Hemlines rose to just below the knee and sleeveless dresses were more commonly worn. Pastels and bright tones also made a bigger appearance. We weren’t quite MOD yet, but gettin’ there.

Women loved the new, more youthful styles and these patterns with simple sleeves and a minimum of detail were also more straightforward to make, though adding belts and texture can be tricky to do just right.

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

THE MODERN 1950’S LIFE OF LEISURE IS THE SPORTY LIFE

This had always been true for the upper classes, so in the 1950’s the whole family got in on the act and Mom knit activewear for everyone. Although commercially-made knit bathing suits were common in the 1920’s, I can’t imagine a more likely opportunity for a wardrobe malfunction. As advertised above, the “bulky” or “stretch” yarns would probably help.

The newly popular “short shorts” with a coordinating top were a perfect project for beach and lawn sports like volleyball, badminton and croquet. The classic and endlessly-versatile cardigan and short-sleeve sweaters were just right for boating, birding, tennis and golf. How civilized . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

TUCKED-IN HAND-KNIT SWEATER-TOPS WEREN’T JUST FOR SKIRTS ANYMORE. A FUN 1954 OUTFIT.

Women were wearing pants more and more in the 1950’s. You’d really want to create this outfit after your trip to Spain! And, DOLMAN SLEEVE SWEATERS – LOVE, LOVE, LOVE!! They’re so Forties and I can’t get over them – just like wedge heels and platforms.

1954 was still pretty conservative, but girls just wanna have fun. And, speaking of fun . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

EARLY 1950’S HOME-CRAFTED ACCESSORIES FOR THE NEW CASUAL LOOK. FINGERTIPS TO TOE . . .

Big decorated tote bags! These are often associated with the 1960’s, but the trend started long before. Whimsical, cute, pretty; whatever your fancy. Big skirts of hand-woven material; how Boho of you! This called for home-made colorful ankle-wrap sandals, designed to match your outfits – a bit of throw-back to 1940’s styles.

As always in mid-century magazines, the pages are also filled with special-interest advertisements and mail-order offers. Women were constantly encouraged to go into home-based business selling accessories and home-assembled items which they could start with a kit by mail or correspondence course – early front-runners to today’s online marketing.

While time and culture kept marching forward, we can continue to see the reluctance to give up previous ways of being and doing things. Just like today, there were big leaps forward that surprised everyone alternating with slow-grinding incremental change that almost seemed like no change at all. However, also like today, it was accelerating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

DRESS IT UP OR DOWN – A MID-CENTURY SWEATER-BLOUSE COULD BE MANY THINGS

Sportswear, day outfits, professional attire, dress-up events – you name it. Beaded or ribbed, plain or patterned; the combinations were endless and all set off that full skirt to perfection. Many would also look great with your Capri’ pants, a straight skirt or even short shorts.

Of course, some needed special accessories . . . . . . . . . .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

ELEGANT, WARM AND HUMANE TRUE VINTAGE OUTERWEAR FOR A FORMAL OCCASION

Evenings are still cold enough to require a warm coat or jacket over formalwear. A blonde faux mink jacket fills the bill and masquerades beautifully. As a great example of mid-century faux furs, this one appears genuine until the closest examination is made.

Styled and tailored as the best furs have always been, this jacket has a full cut, wide collar, cuffs, slash pockets and decorative buttons. A silky full lining covers you inside. The only break with pure vegan construction is a strip of what I believe is leather that faces the front closure on each side. To the credit of the maker, this addition does a good job of strengthening the foundation for the buttons and buttonholes (super important!) and helps the jacket to fall correctly. Now there are ways of accomplishing this with vegan materials.

Again, this coat demonstrates the garment industry’s post-war/mid-century efforts to make the type of wardrobe items which were formerly luxury goods become available to women of the middle classes. Today this trend has continued to build in many segments of wardrobe manufacture i.e. shoes, handbags and sachels/briefcases as well as cosmetics and personal care products which used to be made wholly or in part of substances harvested from animals (fur, skins, leather, whale oil, wool, lanolin, and more). Humane culture is finally becoming mainstream. How Woke of us!

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

AS PROMISED, THE SISTER FROCK TO THE DRESS SHOWN YESTERDAY. POST-WAR 1940’S TAILORED FOR A SOCIALITE.

No ifs, ands or buts about going to a fancy event this time. Also from Montevideo, Uruguay, it belonged to a woman who was or was posing as a member of “society”. This frock has a huge amount of glitzy embellishment both front and back, but what better way to hide in plain sight? Very pretty, and it’s all hand-done. There is a label from “Mae’s” but I still suspect a small tailoring business, unless this was a toney department store that had it’s own tailoring department. The suspect or agent in this case had access to money and obviously had “help” or a very loving and patient partner. Can you imagine any other way to manage all those close-together buttons in back? (Hey, Mae’s, looks like you could have gotten zippers from Argentina instead! See yesterday’s post)

The very 1940’s style details are evident – big shoulders, midi hem length, below-elbow sleeves with shaping detail and that bizarre stuff going on at the hip-line. Unless it’s on the right figure, it’s pretty gruesome but Stella can wear anything. This dress has a very different cut from the one shown yesterday. It may have been made for a different woman but I suspect the measurements have more to do with the style of the dress. The padded shoulders, naturally, are wider but so is the bustline. The hips are narrower. My best guess is that this was done to balance out all the pleating on the hips and keep our heroine from looking bottom-heavy.

It’s a little tired from long-term storage but we know what a good drycleaner’s can do in a jiffy. Stay tuned for stepping into the 1950’s . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

A LADIES WAR-TIME EARRINGS AND BROOCH JEWELRY SET FROM 1940

This set reflects very well the resourcefulness of war-time women and their suppliers in the fashion trade. The availability of metals was restricted, if not yet rationed in 1940. Why not use a hardening and preserving process to manufacture beautiful pieces from natural leaves? The brooch might even have a loop behind for hanging on a chain as a necklace, which was often done. Of course, we’ve seen similar jewelry in the commercial market for the past 3 or 4 decades but this must have been a new or rarely-used technique back in the day. Looks like copper was part of the witch’s brew used here.

Just love it when a lady (investigator, victim or witness? . . . . . .) made notes about the evidence which we sleuths can use in the future and kept the original packaging. Perfect clue . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . …

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM