This gown deserves to be shown on its own. I know the history of it since it belonged to a family member. Imagine an 18 yr.-old girl with stars in her eyes on her special day. Look how sweet – with the cute little bolero jacket. The strappy gown on its own would be great for the Prom. And that tiara headdress . . . . . . .
MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY
BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM
Yes, probably 1930’s there on the left, or maybe even ’20’s. It would look completely different with the appropriate undergarments, but still super-unstructured. What a difference 10 years can make. We go from shaped like a bag to built like a battleship in the 1940’s. Especially after a war – everything changes. This can certainly be seen in the fashion world and makes the sleuthing trade a little easier, but a LOT more fascinating . … . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY
BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM
Another surprise find, as so many are. What would espionage be without the intrigue? A whole lot less fun, that’s for sure.
This dress is big on Stella, so the full impact of the fit isn’t evident. Though it’s not cut on the bias, it definitely has slinky fit potential. A nightgown wouldn’t be likely to have a long zipper down the side, especially when they were always metal, so this is obviously a dress designed for an Occasion. And, also, to be worn without much in the way of undergarments. Oh, the Flirty Thirties!
We’ll be in the Forties for at least a couple of days. Though I showed you Stella’s wedding outfit a little while ago, I may revisit it since it’s such an important part of the file. More to come Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY
BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM
Here’s a beautiful gown from 1942 which I discovered via clandestine information filtered through the espionage grapevine. It was a surprise and fabulous find and so wonderful to get first-hand intelligence about the history! This was originally a department store purchase imported from Europe. What a gorgeous veil, with excellent disguise potential . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ..
MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY
BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM
This is a heavy satin gown from the post-war 1940’s or maybe the very early 1950’s. The detail is incredible, while keeping the tailored, non-fussy style which was popular then. Take a close look at that cape collar. It is edged with beading all around. The buttons and loops in front are just for show. The bride gets into this dress by opening a long metal zipper on the left. So figure-enhancing! My first guess was that this frock had been custom-tailored – and perhaps a lot of custom-fitting did take place – but in truth it was sold by the high-end department store Harzfeld’s in Kansas City, MO. Part of an iconic chain of these stores, it was 11 stories high in the downtown. Undoubtedly, our blushing heroine received elite attention from the sales staff and tailoring department.
The skirt is very full, but there’s no crinoline underneath. That’s an easy thing to add, depending on taste. Just examining all the construction clues is a fascinating way to put together a picture of the era and the circumstances of this particular novia on the day of her wedding. We’ll get a chance to do some more similar sleuthing tomorrow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY
BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM
About 35 – 40 years later we see another Japanese-owned clothing company in Hawaii coming out with a very similar design. This is not the same traditional tea ceremony dress, but alike in many ways; Contrasting lining in the sleeves, ankle length and gently-fitted shape, though the print is a thoroughly MOD pattern in the popular color combo of that brief era around 1962 – 1963. This company apparently closed at that time, too. Wonder why . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY
BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM
The Malihini company which made this garment may have been Japanese-owned. At that time, of course, Hawaii was not a part of the United States. The style is, therefore, traditional Japanese Tea Ceremony garb rather than the Hawaiian style that we began to see become very popular in the 1950’s. The rayon fabric is absolutely wonderful – you’d have to feel it to know. Rayons of that time often felt like silk.
This dress is even too tiny for Stella to get into. A very rare clue . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY
BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM
The pictures are yellowed because of low light at the time of the photograph. However, you can see the exceptional detail in the design of this frock. The true color is a creamy white, with beaded embellishments depicting leaves and flowers. It’s rather intricate to put on, too, with panels that fold over but I finally figured it out. Can you imagine the time it took to fashion this garment by hand – but many women, before the 1950’s, did almost all their sewing that way and had very limited choices with regard to anything they could purchase ready-made.
And to think that now our landfills are overflowing with cheap polyester clothing that is discarded in a few weeks (if it lasts that long). Thank goodness that we can still come across clues like this one . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY
BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM
Worthy of Ayn Rand and such a fabulous example of a Deco design. Black crepe that drapes beautifully is always the go-to but these metal studs covering the fabric are pure Art Deco of the late 1930’s. The high-rise neckline is not often seen. The shoulders are augmented not with pads but with little fabric wedges that extend them just a bit. A side metal zipper and neckline opening complete the sleek and streamlined silhouette. Like so many fitted frocks of that era, this baby goes on over your head.
Unfortunately, the fit of this dress doesn’t do a thing for me even though it’s my size but it looks great on Stella. I guess that’s why she found the right career. At any rate, it’s a perfect sophisticated disguise for any cocktail party or elite dinner. So many of those occasions take place amongst members of high society and the ruling class the world over – perfect for collecting intelligence. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY
BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM
Found in the historic city of Montevideo, capital of Uruguay, this at-home dress may have seen a lot of intrigue. From the pre- and wartime 1930’s – 1940’s, it came from France to the home of a well-to-do woman who had the means to buy her wardrobe from there. Apparently, French-made garments and accessories were favorites of Uruguayan women in Society; at least, until they became unavailable. Some pieces may have remained accessible from occupied France, but probably only to the most elite.
It makes me wonder if clandestine activities may have taken place in order to procure these goods for those who could pay . . . .
MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY
BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM
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