Tag Archives: coat

ICONIC TRUE VINTAGE COAT, FROM THE LATE 1950’S TO 1960’S. LET’S LIGHTEN UP A LITTLE!

For the milder climes, a car coat. This time it’s suede instead of wool, but still with the dressy mink collar and showy buttons. As I’ll show later, leather jackets for women, from Western-wear to dressy styles, were a big thing in the early to mid-Sixties, worn by more and more middle-income women. Usually of a tailored, but casual style and gradually dropping the fur excepting for the hoods of parkas and up-market leather coats and ski jackets.

I’ll continue to focus on seasonal items during this shift from Autumn to Winter and with a nod to the Holidays and vacations. Excepting in the news, nothing controversial happening here but intrigues have a way of appearing spontaneously. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

ANOTHER TRUE VINTAGE WINTER COAT MOVIE STAR. MORE EARLY 1960’S LUXURY

Love that red! I was REALLY thrilled to discover this one. Open-front styling in a Kennedy era coat made it a fashionable wardrobe essential for any city gal in the early 1960’s. I can hardly imagine braving Chicago winds or San Francisco drizzle with this one-button closure, but being a’ la mode has always won over practicality with women, especially in decades past. Thank goodness we are now free of that social pressure and can dress as we please without widespread criticism. No fur trim is a plus, though now I wouldn’t buy wool, either.

Anyway, what’s not to love about this beautiful vintage garment? The easy fit of this style is comfortable and less binding over layers worn beneath. The original label confirms that Forstmann was a high-end brand and worth the investment. This one has held up beautifully for over 60 years with only a very few tiny moth nibbles in inconspicuous places. ( OK, they’ve got to feed their babies, too. ) It has the necessary beautiful lining and slash pockets on the side seams.

I’m now in a secure location, if briefly, so will be able to continue transmissions before the next relocation. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

A MINK COLLAR ON A FINE TRUE VINTAGE CASHMERE COAT RAISES THE STATUS TO LUXURY LEVEL

Again, warmth is the keynote here but glamor is the melody. Beautiful fashioning and two of the most desired materials made this 1950’s – early 1960’s coat a high-end item. We’ve already discussed the humane and ethical problems with fur but cashmere is another atrocity which must be avoided in any modern retail items. There are alternatives now which look and feel like authentic cashmere but are man-made. More iconic coats coming, so stay tuned. I will be changing locations soon, so there may be a brief break in transmissions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

A “NEWER” VERSION OF THE CLASSIC CAMEL COAT FROM 1972

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Isn’t she a beauty? Purchased at Saks Fifth Avenue in Chicago. The label says that the camel hair is also blended with cashmere. Classic is always classic and this trench coat styling is always “new”, especially in a very well-made garment. Makes me feel just like Ingrid Bergman in Casa Blanca.

However, wonderful as this coat is I’ll have to show you a real 1940’s version, truly worthy of Ingrid’s character Ilsa and, of course, any Agent such as Moi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

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NOT TO BE OUTDONE, EVEN BY THEMSELVES, 1960’S KNITTING STARS TOOK ON MAKING THEIR OWN SPRING COATS

Harking back to 1950’s styles, or with Swiss, Italian and British style inspiration and yarns, intrepid needlecrafters went for it. In the spirit of Jacqueline Kennedy’s famous cloth coats in elegant designs by Oleg Cassini, home-knitters made coats with European and designer style. Even the two white Fifties-inspired designs at top were au courant with an open front or cruelty-free collar which looks like an animal skin (although we know that wool, including knitting yarn, IS fur and is NOT cruelty-free).

I especially like the cape with matching skirt and high-neck sweater. Worthy of Sherlock Holmes, himself, with it’s identity-concealing, equipment-hiding capabilities. A sleuth can swan around undercover, looking like a brainless fashion-plate . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

A DISTINCTIVE 1950’s WOOL COAT BY A FAVORITE MAKER – FASHIONBILT

Although, at first glance, this looks like another standard 1950’s winter coat it has several features which set it apart. The fur collar has been dyed in a distinctive pattern. The hip pockets are a very different style, though plenty deep for hands, etc. Also, the fabric, rather than being the usual flat weave, is a boucle’. That’s not frequent on these coats at all, in my experience.

So, the general rules don’t always apply, which makes the sleuthing fascinating. And, I love coming across a favorite brand from back in the day. Fashionbilt consistently made stylish coats for the middleclass market that always impressed me with their design and quality, so these exceptional details are no surprise.

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

BEAUTIFUL 1950’S WOOL COAT IN CLASSIC BLACK

Surprising as it may seem, coats of this type were often more commonly seen in beige, brown and colors than in black. Those alternatives certainly would have been easier to keep looking clean – we all know what lint-magnets black garments are! So, maybe this just became a market-driven issue among the general population. At any rate, it’s true to my sleuthing experience and a clue for the file. However, market characteristics like that can sometimes vary by location or even by year so never ignore a mundane-seeming piece of evidence. That’s especially true when no other signs of its origin can be found.

This particular item, with its de rigueur big sculpted buttons, also has interesting design in back with a big welt seam and a somewhat distinctive collar shape and color, disguised as mink. These little design features are what differentiated one coat from another, as the general style of the time was quite uniform, and can make or break a case whenever witnesses can be found. I guess that’s always true with coats that are built for warmth and outdoor wear. No operative could ask for a better element of disguise while carrying out her daily routine now that our old stand-by, the trench coat, has lost its cover in film noir.

Tomorrow, another example that’s just a pretty fashion piece with no occult interpretations attached. But, you just never know –

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

HERE’S THE SWEETEST POST-WAR EARLY SPRING COAT THERE IS!

Don’t you love those great big buttons, dyed a pale mauve to match the lining of this coat? Also, those sweet bows on each sleeve and Peter Pan collar, paired with the always-necessary and convenient hip pockets – good design that makes this a wonderful true vintage garment. The wool shell is a rather loosely-woven fabric that provides warmth, but not enough for the weather we’re having now. But, just wait . . . . . . . . . . . it’s almost February and warmer days aren’t far away.

Always love the cut of swing coats, as you can tell. Some are much more flared than others, but all are classic and comfortable over whatever is worn underneath. That’s especially important in a 3-season item like this one, when temps may vary a great deal while the season is changing. Over a dress, sweater or even a suit underneath, the coat will still fit well. What could be more practical when disguises may have to be changed frequently . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

LET’S GO UPTOWN AGAIN IN A BEAUTIFUL 1950’S CASHMERE(?) COAT WITH MINK COLLAR

Our investigator is a quick-change artiest, no? Never would she be suspected of having spent last evening in a dance hall, being thrown over the heads and through the legs of downtown boys and laughing all the way. Nope, this lady’s got a pedigree even though she’s not associated with any old family name.

The only identification remaining is a Union Garment Workers tag. But, we know that some powerful force (maybe old money?) was pulling the strings behind the factory that put her together. Not only is the style perfectly classic but the materials leave little question about their quality. Though not top-of-the-line, the wool shell, which feels for all the world like cashmere, is beautiful and soft. The perfect lining, which could be silk, is like a caress against the skin. Sturdy, stylish buttons and practical pockets make the tailoring elegant. The careful attachment of the fur collar, which can easily be removed and replaced whenever the coat is cleaned, shows that this is a high-quality design.

Therefore, our investigator can travel in the environs of high society. Later on, we’ll probably see disguises which would allow her to actually breach the gates of Fifth Avenue . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

1970’S FAUX CASHMERE LONG COAT IN AN UNUSUAL COLOR

The last “keeper” of the vetting process. I’m giving it the space due to its practicality. There’s a big nod to 1950’s styles (look at the molded buttons), looks and feels almost like cashmere (really!) but requires no protection from moths. It’s also a funky color that is particularly flattering to my complexion. Sounds like solid logic to me . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM