POST-WAR 1950’S NEW LOOK FASHION MADE THE CIRCLE SKIRT A GO-TO FAVORITE

Whether daily shopping, a rockabilly event or dressy dance, circle skirts were a style front-runner and showed up everywhere. This trend had started with some peasant styles in the 1940’s, but really took off after the war ended. Of course, it called for a new kind of blouse and top. Favored styles were close-fitting, whether tucked-in or extending over the hips. The natural stretch of knits made them perfect for the job.

The upper photos show casual tops that worked well for warm or cold weather. Needlework magazines published both patterns for these tops and instructions for making and decorating the skirts. Below, we see two-piece dresses in another iteration of those we’ve recently looked at. The apricot-colored dressy skirts pictured met the need by including matching tops in the patterns. The striped outfit has a cap-sleeved blouse for tea-time and one for an evening event with longer sleeves and a plunging back. The solid-color dress is a bit more demure. All of them carry the added possibilities of separates to be mixed and matched within a wardrobe.

And, what a wardrobe! We’ll see how many looks the home needle-worker could create with a few pieces . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

HOW POPULAR DRESS STYLES FOLLOWED AND PROMOTED CULTURAL CHANGE – 1950’S ERA

In the decade that followed World War 2 the image of women in society had been changed by the independence and social involvement required of them during the 1930’s Depression era and the war effort of the 1940’s. Although our culture still expected most women to be homemakers, the surge in average family income and more modern lifestyles encouraged them to become drivers of the consumer economy, which meant getting out in society more often and more visibly.

A woman who wanted to see herself as a benevolent member of her community often participated in volunteer work and this was a step up in her social standing. Sophisticated wardrobes were a part of the image-marketing aimed toward women. Many were still economical do-it-yourselfers and were avid consumers of craft magazines. Tomorrow we’ll continue the journey as this dream lifestyle expanded in the fashion worlds of mid-century women . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

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GORGEOUS TWO-PIECE DRESSES THAT WOMEN DREAMED OF KNITTING IN THE 1950’S

Yes, they dreamed. A few of them actually did it, though it took phenomenal skill with needles or a knitting machine to make one of these outfits with good fit and beautifully-finished detail. The most popular needlework magazines were very good at following the fashion and cultural trends. The pictures above come from issues dated 1954 – 1958. Look at the blue dress top left – remember my posts of dresses and coats with fur trim on cuffs and hems? That was a “fad” in the ’50’s to early ’60’s which came up now and then on the most sophisticated styles. I was surprised to see it shown on a custom-knitted dress.

Can you imagine crafting something tailored as exceptionally as one of these? I can’t, but would LOVE to find one with this amount of style and added detail. You’ll be the first to know when I discover one . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

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NOW, FOR A GENUINE PROM DRESS FROM THE 1940’S

Back to the delightful tailoring of the early mid-century. This is real 1940’s Prom dress style before they became over-the-top- flouncy a few years later. I love the unusual color palette of this frock – sheer powder blue over mauve pink. The ruching on the bodice is quite unique and especially flattering on someone with a small bustline. Looks like a comfortable design that wouldn’t invite wardrobe malfunctions.

Extra crinoline layers could be worn under the skirt if a mid-1950’s silhouette is more your style. However, comfort and freedom of movement are always the gold standard for any effective disguise. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

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SAPPHIRE BLUE AND SATIN, TOO . . . . . . . . .

This version of “satin” is really heavy and is also a bonded fabric. Materials like this crop up here and there throughout the mid-century and seem like they would be uncomfortable to wear. However, they hold their shape very well without the need of too many stiff crinoline underskirt layers which, I suppose, was the point and an improvement over 1950’s styles. The hem is tea-length on Stella but an average-size gal from 1960 – about 5 inches shorter – might have found it to be ankle-length. Again, not really a Prom dress but it would have been perfect at a gala or music recital.

The most striking features are the intense color and the back-view design. Bows were a big deal – even up into the early 1970’s. Comfortably demure but also sexy in it’s own way, gowns like this provided lots of coverage for girdles, garter belts and structured bras – the standard foundation garments of that time. Less prone to “wardrobe malfunctions”? Not sure about that. I’m sure there are stories . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

LET’S LOOK AT SOME LATE 1950’S – EARLY 1960’S SPECIAL OCCASION DRESSES

Not quite a Prom dress, but it might be just right for the Spring Fling. The Spring season has always brought parties, dances and holiday events in March and April. Everyone was itching to get out of the woolies and into pretty frocks again.

This one is just made for the still-cool days and nights in a substantial fabric and with slightly more coverage on the bodice than dresses with spaghetti straps or strapless designs would provide. However, a lacy crocheted shawl or matching bolero jacket would not be out of place. For those of the more tony set, it would be an opportunity to wear a fur stole.

We’ve left St. Paddy’s day behind and are swiftly heading into Easter. Perhaps we’ll look at something a little more conservative tomorrow. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

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Bye -Bye Winter. Let’s look at some short sleeves from the early 1960’s.

Made of the slinky knit stuff that was soooooooo comfy to wear, this day dress looks smashing on Stella, as always. I love it when a find has such a cute, interesting label. I also love these funky abstract mid-century prints that are really wonky. You can take an afternoon trying to figure out what they might be. Nothing much more to say here – it’s got a nylon zip up the back. Funny how some companies didn’t get away from the metal zippers until the mid-Sixties and some started using them in the Fifties . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

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A PRETTY MID-CENTURY ENSEMBLE FOR WARMER WEATHER

During the vetting process I found two bits of evidence that seem to go together well. The dress is an unfinished project which is no mystery as it was given to me by the mother of a friend, who was an exceptional tailor. She even passed on the original pattern, which could have sleeves or not. The best thing about this design is the interesting pockets. When finished, it would be a very smart day dress.

In which case, only a coordinating hat would do for a late 1950’s – early 1960’s ladies’ ensemble. Just right for a Spring or Summer day in the city.

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

AS PROMISED, THE SISTER FROCK TO THE DRESS SHOWN YESTERDAY. POST-WAR 1940’S TAILORED FOR A SOCIALITE.

No ifs, ands or buts about going to a fancy event this time. Also from Montevideo, Uruguay, it belonged to a woman who was or was posing as a member of “society”. This frock has a huge amount of glitzy embellishment both front and back, but what better way to hide in plain sight? Very pretty, and it’s all hand-done. There is a label from “Mae’s” but I still suspect a small tailoring business, unless this was a toney department store that had it’s own tailoring department. The suspect or agent in this case had access to money and obviously had “help” or a very loving and patient partner. Can you imagine any other way to manage all those close-together buttons in back? (Hey, Mae’s, looks like you could have gotten zippers from Argentina instead! See yesterday’s post)

The very 1940’s style details are evident – big shoulders, midi hem length, below-elbow sleeves with shaping detail and that bizarre stuff going on at the hip-line. Unless it’s on the right figure, it’s pretty gruesome but Stella can wear anything. This dress has a very different cut from the one shown yesterday. It may have been made for a different woman but I suspect the measurements have more to do with the style of the dress. The padded shoulders, naturally, are wider but so is the bustline. The hips are narrower. My best guess is that this was done to balance out all the pleating on the hips and keep our heroine from looking bottom-heavy.

It’s a little tired from long-term storage but we know what a good drycleaner’s can do in a jiffy. Stay tuned for stepping into the 1950’s . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

GORGEOUS 1950’S SILK FROCK BY JEANNE D’ARC

Beautifully-tailored, this dress is a perfect example of the quality and exceptional tailoring that was commonly found on mid-century clothing. This was often true even on mid-priced items. Bargain buys were generally well-made, too. Aside from pretty details, excellent cut and fitting seen in clothing from this time, strap holders have always been a favorite find of mine. What could be more practical?

Something else to love is strategically-placed hooks & eyes or snaps. These enhance the fit and protect the garment by preventing gaps or strains on places that had to withstand extra pressure, like the tops of zippers, necklines and waists. Therefore, the clothing always looks better when worn and lasts longer. Today you can buy online a plastic clip that will hold some straps together in back to keep them from falling down your arm, but that does nothing to prevent them from showing in a wide neckline. Nothing is simpler or more elegant than tailoring details which are part of the design.

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM