Tag Archives: mid-century

ELEGANT, WARM AND HUMANE TRUE VINTAGE OUTERWEAR FOR A FORMAL OCCASION

Evenings are still cold enough to require a warm coat or jacket over formalwear. A blonde faux mink jacket fills the bill and masquerades beautifully. As a great example of mid-century faux furs, this one appears genuine until the closest examination is made.

Styled and tailored as the best furs have always been, this jacket has a full cut, wide collar, cuffs, slash pockets and decorative buttons. A silky full lining covers you inside. The only break with pure vegan construction is a strip of what I believe is leather that faces the front closure on each side. To the credit of the maker, this addition does a good job of strengthening the foundation for the buttons and buttonholes (super important!) and helps the jacket to fall correctly. Now there are ways of accomplishing this with vegan materials.

Again, this coat demonstrates the garment industry’s post-war/mid-century efforts to make the type of wardrobe items which were formerly luxury goods become available to women of the middle classes. Today this trend has continued to build in many segments of wardrobe manufacture i.e. shoes, handbags and sachels/briefcases as well as cosmetics and personal care products which used to be made wholly or in part of substances harvested from animals (fur, skins, leather, whale oil, wool, lanolin, and more). Humane culture is finally becoming mainstream. How Woke of us!

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

SAPPHIRE BLUE AND SATIN, TOO . . . . . . . . .

This version of “satin” is really heavy and is also a bonded fabric. Materials like this crop up here and there throughout the mid-century and seem like they would be uncomfortable to wear. However, they hold their shape very well without the need of too many stiff crinoline underskirt layers which, I suppose, was the point and an improvement over 1950’s styles. The hem is tea-length on Stella but an average-size gal from 1960 – about 5 inches shorter – might have found it to be ankle-length. Again, not really a Prom dress but it would have been perfect at a gala or music recital.

The most striking features are the intense color and the back-view design. Bows were a big deal – even up into the early 1970’s. Comfortably demure but also sexy in it’s own way, gowns like this provided lots of coverage for girdles, garter belts and structured bras – the standard foundation garments of that time. Less prone to “wardrobe malfunctions”? Not sure about that. I’m sure there are stories . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

Bye -Bye Winter. Let’s look at some short sleeves from the early 1960’s.

Made of the slinky knit stuff that was soooooooo comfy to wear, this day dress looks smashing on Stella, as always. I love it when a find has such a cute, interesting label. I also love these funky abstract mid-century prints that are really wonky. You can take an afternoon trying to figure out what they might be. Nothing much more to say here – it’s got a nylon zip up the back. Funny how some companies didn’t get away from the metal zippers until the mid-Sixties and some started using them in the Fifties . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

IT’S 1960 AND WE’VE GOT A HANDBAG SORTED; THE DRESS, THE HAT, THE SHOES – JUST A COUPLE MORE THINGS BEFORE HEADING OUT THE DOOR . . . . . . . . .

A pretty handkerchief and a pair of white gloves. Can’t go anywhere without those. One never knows when a sniffle might appear or it might be necessary to shake hands. The collar is a matter of choice if your dress or blouse needs a little extra style before presenting yourself to the world.

Such a relief not to have those worries now. Also, how many times in literature have a dropped handkerchief or a single glove been the undoing of a lady’s reputation? And today, with DNA analysis, she wouldn’t have a chance. As always, agents, take care. The equinox is a powerful time – especially this one . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

TRUE VINTAGE PURSE ACCESSORIES WERE A BIG PART OF THE CONTENTS OF ANY WOMAN’S . . . . . . .

From the 1950’s through the 1970’s some favorite styles and brands were seen on the street every day. Though not as roomy as many of the mini-suitcases that are popular now, there was always room for a compact, mirror, lipstick, coin purse and maybe a plastic rain hat – especially before the 1970’s. A more sophisticated lady might have a notepad with attached pen or pencil, a wallet which also held her checkbook and a few mints for after lunch.

The purse or handbag was always an integral part of a mid-century woman’s ensemble. Often it matched her gloves, shoes or hat. These considerations were probably more important than any kind of status symbol they displayed, though an expensive and well-maintained bag has always been seen as an indicator of social status and fashion-consciousness. The downside today is that it makes an agent easier to spot; so always take care not to leave clues behind . .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

A COMMON MID-CENTURY MAN’S “ACCESSORY” – THE PIPE

We’ll hang with the men for a day or two more. Though it might be odd to think of a pipe as a wardrobe accessory, it would seem to be just that when you think of so many vintage advertising photographs, not for tobacco products but showing a mid-century guy with a pipe. A pipe used to say volumes about a man – his tastes and habits and even his sense of style. What a rich clue – especially in today’s era of DNA evidence.

On top of that, this specimen still has its packaging from that iconic Chicago department store, Marshall Field & Company. Tomorrow we’ll take a look at what the suspect might have been wearing while enjoying a smoke at the end of his day. Stay tuned

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

WHILE WE’RE IN THE JEWELRY FILE, IT’S NOT ONLY WOMEN WHO LEAVE IMPORTANT CLUES

How many times has a dropped cuff-link or a tie tack on an end table been the downfall of a careless man? I’ll bet that Perry Mason could go on all night about those cases. Here are a couple of examples which were very important to a well-dressed guy in the 1950’s and early 1960’s. The set on left are fine jewelry; sterling silver set with pearls. On the right, an ensemble by Swank – costume jewelry, but very respectable. Department stores, jewelry stores and some men’s clothiers carried these items.

Like their female counterparts, men’s taste in jewelry (or, at least, the things they wore) were always valuable clues in case of a mystery. Even though his dress might be due to very unconscious choices, the women, families and vendors involved could probably put together the whole story for a diligent investigator. For our purposes, there’s no need for elaborate interviews or forensics to pinpoint the fashion era of these pieces. With a little imagination and a lot of sleuthing know-how, the entire profile of our suspect comes in to focus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

A PRETTY MID-CENTURY ENSEMBLE FOR WARMER WEATHER

During the vetting process I found two bits of evidence that seem to go together well. The dress is an unfinished project which is no mystery as it was given to me by the mother of a friend, who was an exceptional tailor. She even passed on the original pattern, which could have sleeves or not. The best thing about this design is the interesting pockets. When finished, it would be a very smart day dress.

In which case, only a coordinating hat would do for a late 1950’s – early 1960’s ladies’ ensemble. Just right for a Spring or Summer day in the city.

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

AS PROMISED, THE SISTER FROCK TO THE DRESS SHOWN YESTERDAY. POST-WAR 1940’S TAILORED FOR A SOCIALITE.

No ifs, ands or buts about going to a fancy event this time. Also from Montevideo, Uruguay, it belonged to a woman who was or was posing as a member of “society”. This frock has a huge amount of glitzy embellishment both front and back, but what better way to hide in plain sight? Very pretty, and it’s all hand-done. There is a label from “Mae’s” but I still suspect a small tailoring business, unless this was a toney department store that had it’s own tailoring department. The suspect or agent in this case had access to money and obviously had “help” or a very loving and patient partner. Can you imagine any other way to manage all those close-together buttons in back? (Hey, Mae’s, looks like you could have gotten zippers from Argentina instead! See yesterday’s post)

The very 1940’s style details are evident – big shoulders, midi hem length, below-elbow sleeves with shaping detail and that bizarre stuff going on at the hip-line. Unless it’s on the right figure, it’s pretty gruesome but Stella can wear anything. This dress has a very different cut from the one shown yesterday. It may have been made for a different woman but I suspect the measurements have more to do with the style of the dress. The padded shoulders, naturally, are wider but so is the bustline. The hips are narrower. My best guess is that this was done to balance out all the pleating on the hips and keep our heroine from looking bottom-heavy.

It’s a little tired from long-term storage but we know what a good drycleaner’s can do in a jiffy. Stay tuned for stepping into the 1950’s . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

AN HISTORICAL CHARM BRACELET FROM THE 1920’S 1930’S 1940’s DEPRESSION – World War ERA

So, when I unpacked this I thought “Oh, a charm bracelet. Those started to become fashionable in the mid-century.” Well, when I looked at it closely it’s no regular charm bracelet. It tells the story of the New Deal and wartime. Those coins are from various European countries, and the United States. Germany, France, Italy and England are represented. Leaving out several players, these are the principal Enemy and western Allies of World Wars 1&2. The little male figures (only men, of course) represent people from different walks of life and levels of society. The Native American, the professor, the businessman, the teamster, the beggar, the Laborer and the Elite. This may represent the New Deal’s aim of leveling the economic playing field across all the population. A great idea. Good luck with that.

Fabulous clue, however. Only a certain type of woman at a certain time and from a certain type of place would wear such a bracelet. Or, perhaps, it was an individual creation worn as an unobtrusive bauble but carrying a coded message . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM