Pants, skirts and culottes! Very avant garde for the U.S. But, ladies with knitting needles were not timid and the pattern magazines spurred them on. No one can say that “American” women didn’t avidly follow European high fashion. Investigators have long known that, wherever we are, successful sleuthing depends on being able to blend in. (Must be cautious about calling people from the U.S. Americans, as if we’re the only ones. People from Mexico, Central and South America also identify themselves as American).
The photos I publish are all from vintage McCall’s Needlework and Crafts magazines, an offshoot of the well-known and popular McCall’s women’s magazine that published monthly from 1873 to 2002.
Right around 1960, when the Kennedys stepped foot into the White House, women’s fashion underwent a major change. Jacqueline Kennedy’s elegant and modern simplicity of dress was a powerful influencer of women’s fashion. See the changes here from top to bottom, left to right. Conservative styles, old standards like the nautical themes and midi lengths phased out or disappeared. Hemlines rose to just below the knee and sleeveless dresses were more commonly worn. Pastels and bright tones also made a bigger appearance. We weren’t quite MOD yet, but gettin’ there.
Women loved the new, more youthful styles and these patterns with simple sleeves and a minimum of detail were also more straightforward to make, though adding belts and texture can be tricky to do just right.
This had always been true for the upper classes, so in the 1950’s the whole family got in on the act and Mom knit activewear for everyone. Although commercially-made knit bathing suits were common in the 1920’s, I can’t imagine a more likely opportunity for a wardrobe malfunction. As advertised above, the “bulky” or “stretch” yarns would probably help.
The newly popular “short shorts” with a coordinating top were a perfect project for beach and lawn sports like volleyball, badminton and croquet. The classic and endlessly-versatile cardigan and short-sleeve sweaters were just right for boating, birding, tennis and golf. How civilized . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Women were wearing pants more and more in the 1950’s. You’d really want to create this outfit after your trip to Spain! And, DOLMAN SLEEVE SWEATERS – LOVE, LOVE, LOVE!! They’re so Forties and I can’t get over them – just like wedge heels and platforms.
1954 was still pretty conservative, but girls just wanna have fun. And, speaking of fun . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Big decorated tote bags! These are often associated with the 1960’s, but the trend started long before. Whimsical, cute, pretty; whatever your fancy. Big skirts of hand-woven material; how Boho of you! This called for home-made colorful ankle-wrap sandals, designed to match your outfits – a bit of throw-back to 1940’s styles.
As always in mid-century magazines, the pages are also filled with special-interest advertisements and mail-order offers. Women were constantly encouraged to go into home-based business selling accessories and home-assembled items which they could start with a kit by mail or correspondence course – early front-runners to today’s online marketing.
While time and culture kept marching forward, we can continue to see the reluctance to give up previous ways of being and doing things. Just like today, there were big leaps forward that surprised everyone alternating with slow-grinding incremental change that almost seemed like no change at all. However, also like today, it was accelerating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Sportswear, day outfits, professional attire, dress-up events – you name it. Beaded or ribbed, plain or patterned; the combinations were endless and all set off that full skirt to perfection. Many would also look great with your Capri’ pants, a straight skirt or even short shorts.
Yes, they dreamed. A few of them actually did it, though it took phenomenal skill with needles or a knitting machine to make one of these outfits with good fit and beautifully-finished detail. The most popular needlework magazines were very good at following the fashion and cultural trends. The pictures above come from issues dated 1954 – 1958. Look at the blue dress top left – remember my posts of dresses and coats with fur trim on cuffs and hems? That was a “fad” in the ’50’s to early ’60’s which came up now and then on the most sophisticated styles. I was surprised to see it shown on a custom-knitted dress.
Can you imagine crafting something tailored as exceptionally as one of these? I can’t, but would LOVE to find one with this amount of style and added detail. You’ll be the first to know when I discover one . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
You know me – I can’t stay out of the files. Just opened up a box with many mid-century needlework and craft magazines gifted to me by an elderly friend several years ago. As I reviewed the images, I came across several which show styles similar to some of mine that I’ve recently posted. The examples in my blogs have been from the 1940’s and these two are from the early 1950’s.
Both of the garments pictured above are made from needlework patterns in women’s magazines that many subscribed to. Most women still were not working outside the home. The new image of a suburban homemaker with a new house, many modern appliances and a luxurious life of ease had taken hold in the popular media. Therefore, it was believed that she had plenty of time to concentrate on crafts for pleasure or profit. It’s true that many, many women were knitting, crocheting, sewing and making their own clothing, hats, purses and jewelry during their spare hours if their partners had steady employment. But, of course, most of this was a dream machine.
However, lots of neat stuff from that era is out there and was made at home. Unfortunately, most needlework projects didn’t survive. This is especially true of dresses and coats, which got the most wear. Some of them were absolutely beautiful and I will be showing more pictures. Two-piece ensembles were especially popular right around 1952 – 1959 and into the early 1960’s.
I’m sure to keep on finding these magazine pages that will dovetail with recent posts and fill in the gaps between finds, so stay tuned to the airwaves . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Back to the delightful tailoring of the early mid-century. This is real 1940’s Prom dress style before they became over-the-top- flouncy a few years later. I love the unusual color palette of this frock – sheer powder blue over mauve pink. The ruching on the bodice is quite unique and especially flattering on someone with a small bustline. Looks like a comfortable design that wouldn’t invite wardrobe malfunctions.
Extra crinoline layers could be worn under the skirt if a mid-1950’s silhouette is more your style. However, comfort and freedom of movement are always the gold standard for any effective disguise. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
This version of “satin” is really heavy and is also a bonded fabric. Materials like this crop up here and there throughout the mid-century and seem like they would be uncomfortable to wear. However, they hold their shape very well without the need of too many stiff crinoline underskirt layers which, I suppose, was the point and an improvement over 1950’s styles. The hem is tea-length on Stella but an average-size gal from 1960 – about 5 inches shorter – might have found it to be ankle-length. Again, not really a Prom dress but it would have been perfect at a gala or music recital.
The most striking features are the intense color and the back-view design. Bows were a big deal – even up into the early 1970’s. Comfortably demure but also sexy in it’s own way, gowns like this provided lots of coverage for girdles, garter belts and structured bras – the standard foundation garments of that time. Less prone to “wardrobe malfunctions”? Not sure about that. I’m sure there are stories . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Magicvintagespy 