TRUE VINTAGE POST-WAR SWEATER-DRESS? YES, APPARENTLY SO . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Who would have thought? Until the mother of a friend gave me a 2-piece sweater-dress that she had made for herself in 1952, I never would have guessed it. That dress was a day-dress, whereas this one is dressy. It may even be from the 1940’s. It is hand-knitted from some kind of heavy synthetic yarn, which would make sense for that time period.

Previously, I would never have expected to see something like this before the 1960’s. It just goes to show that there is always more to learn and that clues often come from unexpected sources . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

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GORGEOUS 1950’S SILK FROCK BY JEANNE D’ARC

Beautifully-tailored, this dress is a perfect example of the quality and exceptional tailoring that was commonly found on mid-century clothing. This was often true even on mid-priced items. Bargain buys were generally well-made, too. Aside from pretty details, excellent cut and fitting seen in clothing from this time, strap holders have always been a favorite find of mine. What could be more practical?

Something else to love is strategically-placed hooks & eyes or snaps. These enhance the fit and protect the garment by preventing gaps or strains on places that had to withstand extra pressure, like the tops of zippers, necklines and waists. Therefore, the clothing always looks better when worn and lasts longer. Today you can buy online a plastic clip that will hold some straps together in back to keep them from falling down your arm, but that does nothing to prevent them from showing in a wide neckline. Nothing is simpler or more elegant than tailoring details which are part of the design.

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

OKAY, LET’S GO COMPLETELY DIFFERENT (AGAIN) FOR ANOTHER 1960’S WEDDING(?)

Now we’re Prairie – Victorian, or some combination of the 1800s. Empire waistlines were in style earlier in that century and high necklines with tight sleeves mostly in the 1890’s. The late 1960’s and early 1970’s fell in love with the 1800’s fashion. Think early Gunne Sax. This was especially true for white cotton lingerie undergarments, sleepwear and casual clothing but also spilled over into some day dresses and formals. In this case, a white structured gown was likely meant for a wedding or, at the least, some kind of formal occasion

This one is all 20th century fad fashion, with a zip up the back and polyester fabric. But, it was fun while the trend lasted. Not the best disguise, however, unless you’re in the theater . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

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TWO PRETTY GOWNS FROM THE KENNEDY ERA – AMERICA WAS DEEP INTO THE CAMELOT DREAM

These dresses are very similarly designed, from right around a couple of years either side of 1960. Although they both reflect the New Look changeover which had begun 10 years before, the most notable thing about the style on the left is the shoulder tails. These had been popular on dresses in the 1930’s and earlier, I believe, but made another appearance right around this time. That element changes this garment from a Prom dress into what I suspect was meant for a wedding. The sparkly sequined cummerbund cements the dressy deal.

On the right, our heroine is either a Bridesmaid, Matron of Honor or a bride herself for the second (or 3rd or 4th . . . . . . . . . . . . . .) time. This style has more of the 1940’s elements we’ve seen before, though I still believe that it is newer than that. The sleeves are a clue. However, it was custom-tailored so there is always the element of mystery involved. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

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ANOTHER MYSTERY GOWN AND A NON-TRADITIONAL IDEA

Two fabulous clues that I was never able to fit exactly into place. It’s pretty clear that they both originated somewhere between 1946 and 1962. The investigations they might have clinched have long-since been solved or placed into the dead file. At any rate, it’s clear that, if not a wedding, some gala event and prominent characters were involved.

Before my time, but would make great bases for a story. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

BEAUTIFUL TRADITIONAL WEDDING GOWN FROM 1955

This gown deserves to be shown on its own. I know the history of it since it belonged to a family member. Imagine an 18 yr.-old girl with stars in her eyes on her special day. Look how sweet – with the cute little bolero jacket. The strappy gown on its own would be great for the Prom. And that tiara headdress . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

A MYSTERY DRESS THAT I STILL CAN’T DECIDE ABOUT – PROBABLY ’30’S, AND 2 FROM THE ’40’S

Yes, probably 1930’s there on the left, or maybe even ’20’s. It would look completely different with the appropriate undergarments, but still super-unstructured. What a difference 10 years can make. We go from shaped like a bag to built like a battleship in the 1940’s. Especially after a war – everything changes. This can certainly be seen in the fashion world and makes the sleuthing trade a little easier, but a LOT more fascinating . … . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

A REALLY RARE FIND – AN ART DECO 1930’S GOWN FOR A SLINKY EVENING OR A FASHIONABLE WEDDING

Another surprise find, as so many are. What would espionage be without the intrigue? A whole lot less fun, that’s for sure.

This dress is big on Stella, so the full impact of the fit isn’t evident. Though it’s not cut on the bias, it definitely has slinky fit potential. A nightgown wouldn’t be likely to have a long zipper down the side, especially when they were always metal, so this is obviously a dress designed for an Occasion. And, also, to be worn without much in the way of undergarments. Oh, the Flirty Thirties!

We’ll be in the Forties for at least a couple of days. Though I showed you Stella’s wedding outfit a little while ago, I may revisit it since it’s such an important part of the file. More to come Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

IT’S A BIG FILE! LET’S KEEP LOOKING AT LATE 1930’S – EARLY 1950’S

Here’s a beautiful gown from 1942 which I discovered via clandestine information filtered through the espionage grapevine. It was a surprise and fabulous find and so wonderful to get first-hand intelligence about the history! This was originally a department store purchase imported from Europe. What a gorgeous veil, with excellent disguise potential . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ..

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

WITH VALENTINE’S DAY COMING RIGHT UP, I RE-OPENED THE WEDDING GOWN ARCHIVE

This is a heavy satin gown from the post-war 1940’s or maybe the very early 1950’s. The detail is incredible, while keeping the tailored, non-fussy style which was popular then. Take a close look at that cape collar. It is edged with beading all around. The buttons and loops in front are just for show. The bride gets into this dress by opening a long metal zipper on the left. So figure-enhancing! My first guess was that this frock had been custom-tailored – and perhaps a lot of custom-fitting did take place – but in truth it was sold by the high-end department store Harzfeld’s in Kansas City, MO. Part of an iconic chain of these stores, it was 11 stories high in the downtown. Undoubtedly, our blushing heroine received elite attention from the sales staff and tailoring department.

The skirt is very full, but there’s no crinoline underneath. That’s an easy thing to add, depending on taste. Just examining all the construction clues is a fascinating way to put together a picture of the era and the circumstances of this particular novia on the day of her wedding. We’ll get a chance to do some more similar sleuthing tomorrow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM