MID-1960’S WEDDING – PATIO – HOSTESS GOWN. THINGS WERE CHANGING PRETTY RADICALLY BACK THEN, TOO, AND UNPREDICTABLE

Although there were some radical fashion changes in the 1920’s and 1930’s when women’s clothing styles went edgy for a few years and a lot of necessary changes because of the Depression and wartime restrictions of the ’30’s and 1940’s, the relative peace and prosperity of the 1950’s saw bridal styles snap back into the traditional Princess mode. Then, in the 1960’s, people had some trouble deciding how they wanted things to be, so mid-Sixties trends were all over the place.

Though definitely headed in the non-traditional direction, this gown by a minor-league designer sticks to the standard of careful tailoring and hangs on to the style elements we’d been used to seeing like lace, bows and tiny covered buttons. It’s made of a high quality linen-like fabric. But, unlike the usual wedding designs, this one doesn’t scream WEDDING DRESS at first glance, as most designs always did before the 1960’s.

I suspect that this frock was meant primarily to be for a wedding, but our heroine could get away with it at a swanky party or even lounging by the pool on a weekend. The real clues to break the case would probably not be revealed until a trip to the dry-cleaners or a forensics lab – when and where did she drink that Martini? and those tiny traces of blood? . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

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ANOTHER MYSTERY GOWN AND A NON-TRADITIONAL IDEA

Two fabulous clues that I was never able to fit exactly into place. It’s pretty clear that they both originated somewhere between 1946 and 1962. The investigations they might have clinched have long-since been solved or placed into the dead file. At any rate, it’s clear that, if not a wedding, some gala event and prominent characters were involved.

Before my time, but would make great bases for a story. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

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A REALLY RARE FIND – AN ART DECO 1930’S GOWN FOR A SLINKY EVENING OR A FASHIONABLE WEDDING

Another surprise find, as so many are. What would espionage be without the intrigue? A whole lot less fun, that’s for sure.

This dress is big on Stella, so the full impact of the fit isn’t evident. Though it’s not cut on the bias, it definitely has slinky fit potential. A nightgown wouldn’t be likely to have a long zipper down the side, especially when they were always metal, so this is obviously a dress designed for an Occasion. And, also, to be worn without much in the way of undergarments. Oh, the Flirty Thirties!

We’ll be in the Forties for at least a couple of days. Though I showed you Stella’s wedding outfit a little while ago, I may revisit it since it’s such an important part of the file. More to come Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

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IT’S A BIG FILE! LET’S KEEP LOOKING AT LATE 1930’S – EARLY 1950’S

Here’s a beautiful gown from 1942 which I discovered via clandestine information filtered through the espionage grapevine. It was a surprise and fabulous find and so wonderful to get first-hand intelligence about the history! This was originally a department store purchase imported from Europe. What a gorgeous veil, with excellent disguise potential . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ..

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

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HERE’S A MORE MODERN TAKE ON THE TRADITIONAL FROCK POSTED YESTERDAY . . . .

About 35 – 40 years later we see another Japanese-owned clothing company in Hawaii coming out with a very similar design. This is not the same traditional tea ceremony dress, but alike in many ways; Contrasting lining in the sleeves, ankle length and gently-fitted shape, though the print is a thoroughly MOD pattern in the popular color combo of that brief era around 1962 – 1963. This company apparently closed at that time, too. Wonder why . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

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JUST DUG THIS UP – A PRETTY NECKLACE OF POLISHED AMBER

Amber, in itself, is a very mysterious substance. Eons old and full of many clues encased in it’s golden depths. Earth historians love it, for many reasons, and the lore regarding its spiritual and medicinal powers will delight any anthropologist or sociologist. However, that’s not significant for our purposes.

Amber jewelry is not commonly found in investigations, though it has appeared in the general marketplace much more often since the fall of the Soviet Union. A lot of amber comes from countries which were previously isolated inside the U.S.S.R. The best example may be Lithuania, which produces Baltic amber (the best type) and can now sell it freely. When I do come across a vintage clue made of amber, it tells me that the owner was likely a traveler and/or shopped in exclusive stores. In the case of this particular piece, though the suspect was probably a traveler, it is much more recently made which is demonstrated by the lobster clasp. Fortunately, my files do contain older specimens in the vault. This one, though, does have the beautiful and sought-after intense color that makes this “stone” powerful and valuable.

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

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PRETTY MID-CENTURY AND ANTIQUE COSTUME JEWELRY

Since I’ve veered into the area of accessories a bit, I decided to open the jewelry archived evidence file. It’s a big one, as jewelry pieces are often found at investigation sites. That’s especially true when it comes to mid-century pieces, which were so popular during the 1950’s and 1960’s and considered an essential part of the wardrobe of any well-dressed woman of the time. However, items always appear from years before and after, since women have always loved jewelry and will never stop.

Here’s an assortment of bling that might have been seen on any given day in 1960. All are costume and most are unbranded. These everyday types of clues are not as likely to be the element which makes or breaks a case but agents know better than to leave any stone unturned, and you just never know . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

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BEAUTIFUL 1950’S WOOL COAT IN CLASSIC BLACK

Surprising as it may seem, coats of this type were often more commonly seen in beige, brown and colors than in black. Those alternatives certainly would have been easier to keep looking clean – we all know what lint-magnets black garments are! So, maybe this just became a market-driven issue among the general population. At any rate, it’s true to my sleuthing experience and a clue for the file. However, market characteristics like that can sometimes vary by location or even by year so never ignore a mundane-seeming piece of evidence. That’s especially true when no other signs of its origin can be found.

This particular item, with its de rigueur big sculpted buttons, also has interesting design in back with a big welt seam and a somewhat distinctive collar shape and color, disguised as mink. These little design features are what differentiated one coat from another, as the general style of the time was quite uniform, and can make or break a case whenever witnesses can be found. I guess that’s always true with coats that are built for warmth and outdoor wear. No operative could ask for a better element of disguise while carrying out her daily routine now that our old stand-by, the trench coat, has lost its cover in film noir.

Tomorrow, another example that’s just a pretty fashion piece with no occult interpretations attached. But, you just never know –

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

SING, SING, SING AND SWING, SWING, SWING. A COUPLE OF 1940’S SKIRTS FOR THE DANCE HALL

Sifting through the archives is so much fun. These photos look very much alike, but they’re actually two versions of the same style – made for swing dancing and the jitterbug. Gotta have freedom of movement! At least one was sewn at home. I wouldn’t be surprised if most gals had at least one skirt or dress like this during the wartime 1940’s and many had been swingin’ since the ’20’s. So interesting to note that they are both made from a heavy twill fabric which will keep the skirt very much in place as long as your body is upright. Being off your feet dressed in a clingy fabric can lead to some embarrassing situations and a difficult recovery. Still, it would be a disguise challenge, even at a popular venue with great opportunity to blend in with the crowd – stick to the Lindy or there’s no place to conceal your espionage tools . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

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ANOTHER VERY SPECIAL VINTAGE DRESS – A PARIS KNOCK-OFF BY NELLY DON

When I discovered this clue in an out-of-the-way place I thought “Hmm. This is interesting. Not sure I’d ever wear it, but worth picking up.” It hung in the evidence room for some time until one day, as I was traveling to Europe, I saw a poster with examples of iconic Paris designs from various years and Guess What! 1952.

The Nelly Don label, made in Kansas City, was very popular with mid-century women in the U.S.. This was, in part, because of their up-to-the-minute designs and they weren’t shy about mimicking the famous couturiers. This example is very well-made and leave it to American marketing savvy to think practically and make the peplum removable and to use an easy-care fabric. I also love the subtle basket weave print, which shows up vividly when exposed to the camera flash and digital imaging but is less obvious in ordinary light. Just my cup of tea . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ..

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM