Tag Archives: ladies

BACK TO LADIES’ ACCESSORIES – A MORE MODERN PURSE COMPACT

Come forward about 30 years from the chatelaine compact I showed earlier and we have another example from the 1960’s. Also from my family, with some of the original powder still remaining. For so many decades, a powder compact was an important item in every woman’s purse.

This one is also quite elegant, with a nicely finished puff and separator pad on top of the powder. The pretty design and large mirror made it a pleasure to carry and to use. Despite every effort to be discreet, however, one could hardly help sprinkling a trail of powder here and there when conducting an investigation. It would always have been better for any agent to use a common drugstore brand which could never be associated with with you after the forensics team arrives . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

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NO MID-CENTURY WOMAN LEFT HOME FOR AN OUTING WITHOUT A LITTLE BLING

Whether it was a trip to town for the weekly shopping, the Women’s Club meeting or a visit to a friend in the hospital, a church service or a weekend in the city, most women’s jewelry boxes would have them covered. A simple, but elegant, pair of silver earrings purchased during that trip to Mexico would be perfect with a cotton shirt-dress or cotton blouse and capris at the grocery store. That simple string of white pearls can go almost anywhere anytime, even though these are costume (just don’t wear them in the shower). The brooch in raspberry tones would go well with a nice dress or on the lapel of your coat and the iridescent blue parure is perfect with a dressy suit. Some other time we’ll have to explore the eveningwear file –

At any rate, a few pieces could be very versatile but still leave sleuths with valuable clues about when, where and by who they were worn. It’s often enough to clinch a case . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ..

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

AS PROMISED, THE SISTER FROCK TO THE DRESS SHOWN YESTERDAY. POST-WAR 1940’S TAILORED FOR A SOCIALITE.

No ifs, ands or buts about going to a fancy event this time. Also from Montevideo, Uruguay, it belonged to a woman who was or was posing as a member of “society”. This frock has a huge amount of glitzy embellishment both front and back, but what better way to hide in plain sight? Very pretty, and it’s all hand-done. There is a label from “Mae’s” but I still suspect a small tailoring business, unless this was a toney department store that had it’s own tailoring department. The suspect or agent in this case had access to money and obviously had “help” or a very loving and patient partner. Can you imagine any other way to manage all those close-together buttons in back? (Hey, Mae’s, looks like you could have gotten zippers from Argentina instead! See yesterday’s post)

The very 1940’s style details are evident – big shoulders, midi hem length, below-elbow sleeves with shaping detail and that bizarre stuff going on at the hip-line. Unless it’s on the right figure, it’s pretty gruesome but Stella can wear anything. This dress has a very different cut from the one shown yesterday. It may have been made for a different woman but I suspect the measurements have more to do with the style of the dress. The padded shoulders, naturally, are wider but so is the bustline. The hips are narrower. My best guess is that this was done to balance out all the pleating on the hips and keep our heroine from looking bottom-heavy.

It’s a little tired from long-term storage but we know what a good drycleaner’s can do in a jiffy. Stay tuned for stepping into the 1950’s . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

A LADIES WAR-TIME EARRINGS AND BROOCH JEWELRY SET FROM 1940

This set reflects very well the resourcefulness of war-time women and their suppliers in the fashion trade. The availability of metals was restricted, if not yet rationed in 1940. Why not use a hardening and preserving process to manufacture beautiful pieces from natural leaves? The brooch might even have a loop behind for hanging on a chain as a necklace, which was often done. Of course, we’ve seen similar jewelry in the commercial market for the past 3 or 4 decades but this must have been a new or rarely-used technique back in the day. Looks like copper was part of the witch’s brew used here.

Just love it when a lady (investigator, victim or witness? . . . . . .) made notes about the evidence which we sleuths can use in the future and kept the original packaging. Perfect clue . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . …

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

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AN HISTORICAL CHARM BRACELET FROM THE 1920’S 1930’S 1940’s DEPRESSION – World War ERA

So, when I unpacked this I thought “Oh, a charm bracelet. Those started to become fashionable in the mid-century.” Well, when I looked at it closely it’s no regular charm bracelet. It tells the story of the New Deal and wartime. Those coins are from various European countries, and the United States. Germany, France, Italy and England are represented. Leaving out several players, these are the principal Enemy and western Allies of World Wars 1&2. The little male figures (only men, of course) represent people from different walks of life and levels of society. The Native American, the professor, the businessman, the teamster, the beggar, the Laborer and the Elite. This may represent the New Deal’s aim of leveling the economic playing field across all the population. A great idea. Good luck with that.

Fabulous clue, however. Only a certain type of woman at a certain time and from a certain type of place would wear such a bracelet. Or, perhaps, it was an individual creation worn as an unobtrusive bauble but carrying a coded message . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

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PLUSH VELVET-COVERED VICTORIAN JEWEL BOX FOR A LADY’S VANITY TABLE

My great-great grandmother’s jewelry box. Unfortunately, one of the flasks for perfume or cologne (often called toilet water back in the day, but I hesitate to use that term now) was lost or broken. However, this vanity accessory is in great shape. The true color is a more bluish cranberry red. The square-shaped tray in the center lifts up to reveal another compartment below.

This piece is large – about 14″ wide by 7″ deep and 6″ high. Completely covered in velvet with satin liner. However, the Victorian tendency to over-embellishment and wastefulness in design is evident. The darn thing is heavy and holds very little jewelry. You see on top formed places for a bracelet or two and a few rings plus necklaces or pins at the side. Down below there’s a little more room, but not a lot. The spaces below where the bottles sit are inaccessible and don’t hold anything. This would never be practical for modern women of our lifetime. However, we must admit that the tendency to over-accumulate stuff is something that the post-war generations after World War II have to own. I’m sure that great-great grandma was thrilled with this. But then, she wasn’t a sleuth, to the best of my knowledge.

Think of the hidden compartments which could have been installed . . .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

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MORE FROM THE VICTORIAN ARCHIVE – A MOURNING BROOCH AND NECKLACE

After several tries, here’s a good close-up view of this Victorian to Edwardian era mourning jewelry from the late 1800’s to very early 1900’s. Commonly worn after the deaths of close family members, this type of jewelry was usually set with onyx, obsidian, black glass or jet stones. The blank portrait area on the pendant is the aspect I find most ominous. So very glad that this morbid tradition has, for the most part been abandoned, at least in the United States.

The brief wearing of black armbands is less concerning and it is good that, in some cases, people who are recovering from a serious loss can be identified and respected. Though it could come in very handy as an element of disguise, I’m not likely ever to use it . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

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EARLY 1900’S FACE POWDER COMPACT CHATELAINE

This is really special – it comes from my family. Can’t say which of the grannies or aunties it belonged to, but one of them carried it before the 1930’s. Can you imagine – it still contains some of the powder and rouge that she used!

It’s a pretty messy deal, but you can see that there is an attractive little lever to hold one of the powder puffs in place, no doubt to prevent the two powders from mixing. Well, good luck on that, but I guess it worked well enough.

On top of that, the compact then fastened on to a clip somewhere on her belt or pocket or in a purse. Powdering one’s nose was an important beauty ritual for women at least until the end of the mid-century. They must have sprinkled cosmetic across the entire world. Take care, damsels of intrigue. If a clever investigator could suss out the exact shade and formulation of the evidence left behind, s/he might be on your trail . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

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PRETTY MID-CENTURY AND ANTIQUE COSTUME JEWELRY

Since I’ve veered into the area of accessories a bit, I decided to open the jewelry archived evidence file. It’s a big one, as jewelry pieces are often found at investigation sites. That’s especially true when it comes to mid-century pieces, which were so popular during the 1950’s and 1960’s and considered an essential part of the wardrobe of any well-dressed woman of the time. However, items always appear from years before and after, since women have always loved jewelry and will never stop.

Here’s an assortment of bling that might have been seen on any given day in 1960. All are costume and most are unbranded. These everyday types of clues are not as likely to be the element which makes or breaks a case but agents know better than to leave any stone unturned, and you just never know . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

BEAUTIFUL 1950’S WOOL COAT IN CLASSIC BLACK

Surprising as it may seem, coats of this type were often more commonly seen in beige, brown and colors than in black. Those alternatives certainly would have been easier to keep looking clean – we all know what lint-magnets black garments are! So, maybe this just became a market-driven issue among the general population. At any rate, it’s true to my sleuthing experience and a clue for the file. However, market characteristics like that can sometimes vary by location or even by year so never ignore a mundane-seeming piece of evidence. That’s especially true when no other signs of its origin can be found.

This particular item, with its de rigueur big sculpted buttons, also has interesting design in back with a big welt seam and a somewhat distinctive collar shape and color, disguised as mink. These little design features are what differentiated one coat from another, as the general style of the time was quite uniform, and can make or break a case whenever witnesses can be found. I guess that’s always true with coats that are built for warmth and outdoor wear. No operative could ask for a better element of disguise while carrying out her daily routine now that our old stand-by, the trench coat, has lost its cover in film noir.

Tomorrow, another example that’s just a pretty fashion piece with no occult interpretations attached. But, you just never know –

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM