Tag Archives: frock

HOW INTRIGUING. A POST-WAR 1940’S COCKTAIL DRESS FROM URUGUAY

This garment came to light during an investigation in that nation’s capitol, Montevideo. It is a very international city and was undoubtedly a hotbed of clandestine affairs during the wartime 1940’s. The cocktail dress pictured above had been commissioned by a woman who was a member of the social elite who routinely had their fashions custom-tailored or traded with shops that offered handmade garments and imported couture. The lack of a label and evident hand-stitching point to a private tailor. Though the crepe is a little rumpled from years of storage, this frock has been well-preserved and is a perfect example of that genre.

I am not sure whether the tailoring differences from what we expect in dresses made in North America are due to historical constraints or to the culture of that country. The extended shoulders, sheer insets, midi-length hem and ubiquitous black rayon fabric are commonly seen in designs of that post-war time but I was a little surprised by the straight, matronly cut. Either the New Look with its nipped waist had not yet landed in high fashion, or this frock was made for a more conservative, older woman.

The same will be seen in a similar dress from that same investigation which will be shown, probably tomorrow. Stay tuned . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

GORGEOUS 1950’S SILK FROCK BY JEANNE D’ARC

Beautifully-tailored, this dress is a perfect example of the quality and exceptional tailoring that was commonly found on mid-century clothing. This was often true even on mid-priced items. Bargain buys were generally well-made, too. Aside from pretty details, excellent cut and fitting seen in clothing from this time, strap holders have always been a favorite find of mine. What could be more practical?

Something else to love is strategically-placed hooks & eyes or snaps. These enhance the fit and protect the garment by preventing gaps or strains on places that had to withstand extra pressure, like the tops of zippers, necklines and waists. Therefore, the clothing always looks better when worn and lasts longer. Today you can buy online a plastic clip that will hold some straps together in back to keep them from falling down your arm, but that does nothing to prevent them from showing in a wide neckline. Nothing is simpler or more elegant than tailoring details which are part of the design.

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

VERY RARE FIND: A HAND-TAILORED GARDEN PARTY DRESS FROM THE 1920’S OR BEFORE

The pictures are yellowed because of low light at the time of the photograph. However, you can see the exceptional detail in the design of this frock. The true color is a creamy white, with beaded embellishments depicting leaves and flowers. It’s rather intricate to put on, too, with panels that fold over but I finally figured it out. Can you imagine the time it took to fashion this garment by hand – but many women, before the 1950’s, did almost all their sewing that way and had very limited choices with regard to anything they could purchase ready-made.

And to think that now our landfills are overflowing with cheap polyester clothing that is discarded in a few weeks (if it lasts that long). Thank goodness that we can still come across clues like this one . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

A 1930’S BLACK CREPE COCKTAIL SHEATH WITH ART DECO EMBELLISHMENTS

Worthy of Ayn Rand and such a fabulous example of a Deco design. Black crepe that drapes beautifully is always the go-to but these metal studs covering the fabric are pure Art Deco of the late 1930’s. The high-rise neckline is not often seen. The shoulders are augmented not with pads but with little fabric wedges that extend them just a bit. A side metal zipper and neckline opening complete the sleek and streamlined silhouette. Like so many fitted frocks of that era, this baby goes on over your head.

Unfortunately, the fit of this dress doesn’t do a thing for me even though it’s my size but it looks great on Stella. I guess that’s why she found the right career. At any rate, it’s a perfect sophisticated disguise for any cocktail party or elite dinner. So many of those occasions take place amongst members of high society and the ruling class the world over – perfect for collecting intelligence. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

MID-CENTRY DRESSY DAY FROCKS COMMONLY SEEN IN ANY SUBURBAN WOMAN’S 1960 CLOSET

The thing that makes these dresses special is that they were SO iconic of that time. The whole U.S. nation and much of the world was enthralled by the Kennedys and women wanted to follow Jacqueline’s fashion style. Dresses like this, with elegant, body-skimming lines were a hallmark of her wardrobe as First Lady. Naturally, designers and manufacturers capitalized on this in the marketplace. It’s a phenomenon that has taken place during almost every presidency, but this one became legendary and we all know why . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

1920’S – 1930’S DROPPED WAIST CREPE DRESS WITH BEADED TRIM

This dress was a really great find and incredibly rare. The slouchy, dropped sleeves, loosely fitted silhouette and tons of beading design are very indicative of the few years pre-war – whether talking about WWI or WWII, although other style elements still were frequently seen. This frock was custom-made for dressy dinner or party events. As often happened with vintage rayon crepe, there is some color fade but the condition of the garment is still remarkable. Since it turned up away from its original home, there are no specific clues associated with it. But, the city in which it was found and where its original owner undoubtedly went about her business has been known, for decades, for its high-rollers, shady dealings and clandestine activities. Need I say more? The case will probably never be closed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

FROM FORMAL BACK TO COCKTAIL – A LATE 1960’S NON-TRADITIONAL FIND

I LOVE this dress! It’s so different, but with all the hallmarks of a perfect true vintage cocktail frock. 1. It’s black 2. It’s sophisticated, elegant and well-designed 3. It is not too revealing (didn’t I mention elegant?) The BEST thing about this particular dress is the asymmetrical 3/4 sleeves, trimmed in marabou (another inhumane vintage-era material, like fur, that is definitely off the table today). So Sixties.

A great length, Easy to wear. comfortable and flattering body-skimming cut. Sleeves add a bit of warmth if you don’t want to be forced to wear some kind of shawl, etc. in a cool room. Flattering scoop neckline sets a perfect stage for your pearls (or diamond pendant, or emerald, or ruby, or sapphire . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Definitely bling-worthy.

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

ANOTHER PRETTY PARTY SWING DRESS FROM THE 1940’S

Love this color so much, and it’s been fun to wear. The previous two frocks shown have been reproductions but this one’s the real deal. Side metal zipper, generous hem allowance and hand-applied sequin trimming. I believe that this dress was home-tailored.

And, instead of being made from a jacquard or faux satin, it’s a plush red velveteen fabric; couldn’t be more winter-holiday-festive than that! Whether it’s Christmas, New Year’s or Valentine’s Day – just perfect for dancing the night away. . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

1980’s DOES POST-WAR 1940’s LUX COCKTAIL FROCK

This gorgeous dress is made from a beautiful, glossy fabric which is reminiscent of vintage rayon satins. The styling elements are true to era and the tailoring is impeccable. This garment was made by a professional, even if in his or her own home! It’s a little big on Stella but you can still see the lovely fit. The back-tie sash helps with that while making a big fashion statement from the rear view.

A woman living in the post-war United States with some money to spend would have been delighted with the renewed availability of fine fabrics and flattering luxury designs with full skirts and long hems – a perfect style in which to celebrate the new peacetime. Made in the more modern version, this frock is easy to wear, easy to store. The purchase was a winner but, though I love the persimmon color, it’s just too big for me. So, time to pass it on to a new home for the holidays . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

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1970’s DOES 1940’S FESTIVE SWING DRESS

This dress is made very faithfully to style elements of the wartime 1940’s. The zipper told me that it was made during the early 1970’s during the Forties fashion revival of that time, but otherwise it could have been original. Sometimes well-done reproductions are even better in some ways such as ease when dressing (zippers are not in hard-to-reach places) and laundering. However, there’s NOTHING as wonderful as original vintage so I love finding beautiful reproduction garments from eras where a lot of the originals no longer are with us. More to come, in colors and styles just right for the coming season . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM