OKAY, LET’S GO COMPLETELY DIFFERENT (AGAIN) FOR ANOTHER 1960’S WEDDING(?)

Now we’re Prairie – Victorian, or some combination of the 1800s. Empire waistlines were in style earlier in that century and high necklines with tight sleeves mostly in the 1890’s. The late 1960’s and early 1970’s fell in love with the 1800’s fashion. Think early Gunne Sax. This was especially true for white cotton lingerie undergarments, sleepwear and casual clothing but also spilled over into some day dresses and formals. In this case, a white structured gown was likely meant for a wedding or, at the least, some kind of formal occasion

This one is all 20th century fad fashion, with a zip up the back and polyester fabric. But, it was fun while the trend lasted. Not the best disguise, however, unless you’re in the theater . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

MID-1960’S WEDDING – PATIO – HOSTESS GOWN. THINGS WERE CHANGING PRETTY RADICALLY BACK THEN, TOO, AND UNPREDICTABLE

Although there were some radical fashion changes in the 1920’s and 1930’s when women’s clothing styles went edgy for a few years and a lot of necessary changes because of the Depression and wartime restrictions of the ’30’s and 1940’s, the relative peace and prosperity of the 1950’s saw bridal styles snap back into the traditional Princess mode. Then, in the 1960’s, people had some trouble deciding how they wanted things to be, so mid-Sixties trends were all over the place.

Though definitely headed in the non-traditional direction, this gown by a minor-league designer sticks to the standard of careful tailoring and hangs on to the style elements we’d been used to seeing like lace, bows and tiny covered buttons. It’s made of a high quality linen-like fabric. But, unlike the usual wedding designs, this one doesn’t scream WEDDING DRESS at first glance, as most designs always did before the 1960’s.

I suspect that this frock was meant primarily to be for a wedding, but our heroine could get away with it at a swanky party or even lounging by the pool on a weekend. The real clues to break the case would probably not be revealed until a trip to the dry-cleaners or a forensics lab – when and where did she drink that Martini? and those tiny traces of blood? . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

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TWO PRETTY GOWNS FROM THE KENNEDY ERA – AMERICA WAS DEEP INTO THE CAMELOT DREAM

These dresses are very similarly designed, from right around a couple of years either side of 1960. Although they both reflect the New Look changeover which had begun 10 years before, the most notable thing about the style on the left is the shoulder tails. These had been popular on dresses in the 1930’s and earlier, I believe, but made another appearance right around this time. That element changes this garment from a Prom dress into what I suspect was meant for a wedding. The sparkly sequined cummerbund cements the dressy deal.

On the right, our heroine is either a Bridesmaid, Matron of Honor or a bride herself for the second (or 3rd or 4th . . . . . . . . . . . . . .) time. This style has more of the 1940’s elements we’ve seen before, though I still believe that it is newer than that. The sleeves are a clue. However, it was custom-tailored so there is always the element of mystery involved. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

ANOTHER MYSTERY GOWN AND A NON-TRADITIONAL IDEA

Two fabulous clues that I was never able to fit exactly into place. It’s pretty clear that they both originated somewhere between 1946 and 1962. The investigations they might have clinched have long-since been solved or placed into the dead file. At any rate, it’s clear that, if not a wedding, some gala event and prominent characters were involved.

Before my time, but would make great bases for a story. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

BEAUTIFUL TRADITIONAL WEDDING GOWN FROM 1955

This gown deserves to be shown on its own. I know the history of it since it belonged to a family member. Imagine an 18 yr.-old girl with stars in her eyes on her special day. Look how sweet – with the cute little bolero jacket. The strappy gown on its own would be great for the Prom. And that tiara headdress . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

A MYSTERY DRESS THAT I STILL CAN’T DECIDE ABOUT – PROBABLY ’30’S, AND 2 FROM THE ’40’S

Yes, probably 1930’s there on the left, or maybe even ’20’s. It would look completely different with the appropriate undergarments, but still super-unstructured. What a difference 10 years can make. We go from shaped like a bag to built like a battleship in the 1940’s. Especially after a war – everything changes. This can certainly be seen in the fashion world and makes the sleuthing trade a little easier, but a LOT more fascinating . … . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

WITH VALENTINE’S DAY COMING RIGHT UP, I RE-OPENED THE WEDDING GOWN ARCHIVE

This is a heavy satin gown from the post-war 1940’s or maybe the very early 1950’s. The detail is incredible, while keeping the tailored, non-fussy style which was popular then. Take a close look at that cape collar. It is edged with beading all around. The buttons and loops in front are just for show. The bride gets into this dress by opening a long metal zipper on the left. So figure-enhancing! My first guess was that this frock had been custom-tailored – and perhaps a lot of custom-fitting did take place – but in truth it was sold by the high-end department store Harzfeld’s in Kansas City, MO. Part of an iconic chain of these stores, it was 11 stories high in the downtown. Undoubtedly, our blushing heroine received elite attention from the sales staff and tailoring department.

The skirt is very full, but there’s no crinoline underneath. That’s an easy thing to add, depending on taste. Just examining all the construction clues is a fascinating way to put together a picture of the era and the circumstances of this particular novia on the day of her wedding. We’ll get a chance to do some more similar sleuthing tomorrow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

VERY RARE FIND: A HAND-TAILORED GARDEN PARTY DRESS FROM THE 1920’S OR BEFORE

The pictures are yellowed because of low light at the time of the photograph. However, you can see the exceptional detail in the design of this frock. The true color is a creamy white, with beaded embellishments depicting leaves and flowers. It’s rather intricate to put on, too, with panels that fold over but I finally figured it out. Can you imagine the time it took to fashion this garment by hand – but many women, before the 1950’s, did almost all their sewing that way and had very limited choices with regard to anything they could purchase ready-made.

And to think that now our landfills are overflowing with cheap polyester clothing that is discarded in a few weeks (if it lasts that long). Thank goodness that we can still come across clues like this one . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

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A 1930’S BLACK CREPE COCKTAIL SHEATH WITH ART DECO EMBELLISHMENTS

Worthy of Ayn Rand and such a fabulous example of a Deco design. Black crepe that drapes beautifully is always the go-to but these metal studs covering the fabric are pure Art Deco of the late 1930’s. The high-rise neckline is not often seen. The shoulders are augmented not with pads but with little fabric wedges that extend them just a bit. A side metal zipper and neckline opening complete the sleek and streamlined silhouette. Like so many fitted frocks of that era, this baby goes on over your head.

Unfortunately, the fit of this dress doesn’t do a thing for me even though it’s my size but it looks great on Stella. I guess that’s why she found the right career. At any rate, it’s a perfect sophisticated disguise for any cocktail party or elite dinner. So many of those occasions take place amongst members of high society and the ruling class the world over – perfect for collecting intelligence. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

SILKY BOUDOIR GOWN FROM FRANCE – VIA MONTEVIDEO, URUGUAY

Found in the historic city of Montevideo, capital of Uruguay, this at-home dress may have seen a lot of intrigue. From the pre- and wartime 1930’s – 1940’s, it came from France to the home of a well-to-do woman who had the means to buy her wardrobe from there. Apparently, French-made garments and accessories were favorites of Uruguayan women in Society; at least, until they became unavailable. Some pieces may have remained accessible from occupied France, but probably only to the most elite.

It makes me wonder if clandestine activities may have taken place in order to procure these goods for those who could pay . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM