A DISTINCTIVE 1950’s WOOL COAT BY A FAVORITE MAKER – FASHIONBILT

Although, at first glance, this looks like another standard 1950’s winter coat it has several features which set it apart. The fur collar has been dyed in a distinctive pattern. The hip pockets are a very different style, though plenty deep for hands, etc. Also, the fabric, rather than being the usual flat weave, is a boucle’. That’s not frequent on these coats at all, in my experience.

So, the general rules don’t always apply, which makes the sleuthing fascinating. And, I love coming across a favorite brand from back in the day. Fashionbilt consistently made stylish coats for the middleclass market that always impressed me with their design and quality, so these exceptional details are no surprise.

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

LET’S GO UPTOWN AGAIN IN A BEAUTIFUL 1950’S CASHMERE(?) COAT WITH MINK COLLAR

Our investigator is a quick-change artiest, no? Never would she be suspected of having spent last evening in a dance hall, being thrown over the heads and through the legs of downtown boys and laughing all the way. Nope, this lady’s got a pedigree even though she’s not associated with any old family name.

The only identification remaining is a Union Garment Workers tag. But, we know that some powerful force (maybe old money?) was pulling the strings behind the factory that put her together. Not only is the style perfectly classic but the materials leave little question about their quality. Though not top-of-the-line, the wool shell, which feels for all the world like cashmere, is beautiful and soft. The perfect lining, which could be silk, is like a caress against the skin. Sturdy, stylish buttons and practical pockets make the tailoring elegant. The careful attachment of the fur collar, which can easily be removed and replaced whenever the coat is cleaned, shows that this is a high-quality design.

Therefore, our investigator can travel in the environs of high society. Later on, we’ll probably see disguises which would allow her to actually breach the gates of Fifth Avenue . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

1920’S – 1930’S DROPPED WAIST CREPE DRESS WITH BEADED TRIM

This dress was a really great find and incredibly rare. The slouchy, dropped sleeves, loosely fitted silhouette and tons of beading design are very indicative of the few years pre-war – whether talking about WWI or WWII, although other style elements still were frequently seen. This frock was custom-made for dressy dinner or party events. As often happened with vintage rayon crepe, there is some color fade but the condition of the garment is still remarkable. Since it turned up away from its original home, there are no specific clues associated with it. But, the city in which it was found and where its original owner undoubtedly went about her business has been known, for decades, for its high-rollers, shady dealings and clandestine activities. Need I say more? The case will probably never be closed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

ANOTHER VERY SPECIAL VINTAGE DRESS – A PARIS KNOCK-OFF BY NELLY DON

When I discovered this clue in an out-of-the-way place I thought “Hmm. This is interesting. Not sure I’d ever wear it, but worth picking up.” It hung in the evidence room for some time until one day, as I was traveling to Europe, I saw a poster with examples of iconic Paris designs from various years and Guess What! 1952.

The Nelly Don label, made in Kansas City, was very popular with mid-century women in the U.S.. This was, in part, because of their up-to-the-minute designs and they weren’t shy about mimicking the famous couturiers. This example is very well-made and leave it to American marketing savvy to think practically and make the peplum removable and to use an easy-care fabric. I also love the subtle basket weave print, which shows up vividly when exposed to the camera flash and digital imaging but is less obvious in ordinary light. Just my cup of tea . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ..

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

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VINTAGE 100% SILK CHEONGSAM DRESS

Beautiful, beautiful. Worthy of Mata Hari, it’s classically hand-tailored – but wait – in Japan?! This is a traditional Chinese style frock. Also, because of it’s classic design and the handcrafting techniques used in it’s construction, I can’t tell it’s exact age. So many mysterious and conflicting clues – like when agents are “hiding in plain sight”. Perfect disguise . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Anyway, after hats off to my craft and fellow operatives, I don’t have to worry about those twists and turns because this case is closed. Now all that’s left to do is declassify the file and enjoy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

“HEY, LUCY . . . . .!” EARLY 1950’S SWING COAT IN FAUX BEAVER

I was thinking I would sell this coat, so I tried it on again and said “Nuh-uh!”. It’s SO neat. Just couldn’t think of parting with it yet. It’s completely open from the button closure at top, with a swing shape. But, also very warm. The synthetic faux fur looks like beaver and is very snuggly, as well as absolutely cruelty-free. Couldn’t be better – this is the future!

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

OPEN-FRONT COAT FROM THE FIFTIES OR EARLY SIXTIES

This is a casual coat from post-WWII mid-century that closes with one hidden button and loop at the waistline. It’s got specialized tailoring details that are my favorite part. The wool fabric is a great “tweed” with fall colors, so a good choice for September. The brown lining is shiny and silky but it’s also got a decorative border above the hem that is embroidered in glossy brown thread. Hidden, but pretty!

See above how the pockets are accented with fabric-covered buckles that don’t do anything but look smart. Unfortunately, the pockets are only deep enough for a tissue or a small coin-purse, but that’s OK. I’ll enjoy wearing it on walks and I can still stop at the corner store. The neckline area, just above the collarbones, is accented with tabs and buttons which also don’t do anything but look stylish. And, the back vent in the hemline is practical but adds the look of good design. A winner!

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

SOPHISTICATED SPRING COAT FROM THE MID-CENTURY

Despite the uptown appearance, this coat is made of humble fabric but expertly done. Not sure when it was created – could be anywhere from the 1940’s to the very early 1960’s – but it follows the pattern of economy that my recent posts have been showing. However, though it has no labels, I suspect that it was not made at home but was made commercially. It is really well-done and beautifully-designed with seaming that gives it a special fit and flare shape. It’s still got great shoulders, too.

And, of course, the hip pockets that are so important and useful on a good coat. The best ones are made like these last three I’ve shown which hide the pockets so well in the design that they are almost invisible.

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

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CLASSIC MID-CENTURY DRESSY-CASUAL LEATHER JACKET

From about the late 1950’s to the mid-1970’s a classic jacket like this one would go almost anywhere, day or evening, over your slacks, skirt or dress. Not meant for formal wear, but always part of a “well-dressed” woman’s wardrobe. Leather items were considered to be “quality” garments. Well-crafted and elegant in style, outerwear like this replaced the previous “car coat” when longer hemlines were not the daily standard anymore.

We’ve continued to love leather jackets of various styles over the decades since the “bomber jacket”, developed by the military during WW1, became popular as a fashion item after the 1940’s. Although it requires some extra care, properly tanned leather is durable and maintains its good looks. Now, however, we are better-informed about how leather for clothing is produced and have the dilemma of choosing to go vegan in our clothing selections. As you know, I’ve made my choice.

Less vulnerable to the elements than fur, my leather jackets will continue to serve me for the rest of my life if I look after them. I’ll probably never have to make the choice between authentic and faux leather. True vintage leather garments and accessories made before 1980 are investments and still an ethical choice.

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

TRUE VINTAGE CASUAL SWEATERS FROM THE FIFTIES – A CUTE PAIR OF TWINS FOR THE SWEATER GIRLS

IMG_0927     Not your typical “twin-set” – I found this pair of ’50’s cuties together – they probably belonged to the same woman.  They’re identical excepting for the color.  Very becoming to both Madge and Stella, don’t you think?  If you zoom in, you can see the decorative studs on the front of each one.

Of the softest angora blend – rollover neckline, 3/4 sleeves and decorated with button accents on the front – these look great with black cigarette pants or a coordinating skirt.  Perfect for a casual Fifties or early Sixties cocktail hour.  Belly up to the Tiki bar!

True vintage sweaters in perfect condition are always a rare find!  Just another day in the life of the magicvintagespy . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG:  MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM