Author Archives: Morgana Martin, the magicvintagespy

HIDING IN PLAIN SIGHT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

. . . . . . . . . . . . . in a neglected storage locker, 8 varied items of mid-century true vintage clothing evidence turned up; Seven shirts/blouses and one 3-season jacket were tucked away in dark corners. At first glance, they may seem “ho-hum” but careful examination proved why they had been collected and kept. Each one contains a variety of clues worth noticing and discussing.

So, I will be presenting these items individually with details . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

SATELLITE UPDATE

As noted earlier, investigations and vetting of evidence files have been on hold while operations are settled into a satellite location. However, while organizing the re-location, a few old archives from the 1970’s were discovered mixed in with modern files. As a result, some updates may be published while revising the efficiency standards of this surveillance station. New investigations may also be scheduled on an impromptu basis while this is taking place. Your agent does her best to maintain order, but it’s a never-ending challenge (sigh). Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

A FABULOUS HISTORICAL SHIRT FIND WITH PERFECT, PERFECT TAILORING!

A super, surprise find of 5 dead stock tailored shirts from the British House, Michigan Avenue, Chicago, which permanently closed in 2016 after the company was unable to find a new buyer. Started in 1928 by several U.S. entrepreneurs, it was one of a group of stores located in high-end shopping areas in several major cities. This history of selling more or less elite merchandise is supported by the original tags on these shirts, which show a price of $121.50.

It’s so fun to find this little bit of fashion history but I couldn’t be more delighted for several reasons. The tailoring, as you would expect, is superb. Three of the shirts are 100% cotton and two are a 65-35 poly-cotton blend. At first glance, I expected them to have come from a Western-wear store so I’m not sure who copied whom when these styles were originated.

The next best things are the tailoring and fitting. They are exceptionally well-made but also have a wonderful fit that is very hard to find now. The design is casual but the fitting is uptown. Perfect on Stella (and me!).

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

A CUTE LITTLE HOME-SEWN COTTON CIRCLE SKIRT FROM THE MID-CENTURY

In an unexpected place, this was my first find. A full circle, this skirt is pure fun. From the carved button to the barbershop braid to the bright red tier it might have been worn with a peasant blouse in the 1940’s, the 1950’s or even the early 1960’s. Home-based seamstresses used to use notions from their stockpile of previous years, so the button, zipper, braid and even the fabric could have been from years before this garment was actually made BUT, all things considered, I place this skirt in the post-war 1940’s or early to mid-1950’s.

The length and tiny waist measurement (22″) back up this assessment. I had to get the zipper back on track, but otherwise perfect! A great start to my brief investigation, but there’s more to come . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

2 “NEW” FINDS COMING OVER THE CLOUD-WAVES SOON

This agent is currently pre-occupied with preparations for a temporary move of base camps. A relocation of operations must take place periodically, but cannot necessarily interrupt on-going sleuthing activity. Results of a recent impromptu investigation will be broadcast soon. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

ANOTHER SURPRISE FIND! BEAUTIFUL RED LEATHER HANDBAG FROM 1961

Leather inside and out with an attached coin purse. Couldn’t be better! Red handbags are always at a premium and this one is lovely. Love the black leather lining, too. Made by Rolfs, which I think is the same company that even recently made/makes wallets and other leather purse accessories of exceptional quality.

This purse was originally sold in a small, local shoe store but is miles ahead of some of the cheaper shoe store versions of later years. In addition to the coin purse (where an original hand-written receipt was still kept), there is a zippered center compartment inside and the brand name stamped in gold lettering. I had initially dated this bag as 1940’s to 1950’s but changed my assessment when looking at the date on the receipt. However, it’s not clear if that receipt is for the sale of this handbag or for another charge – possibly a dying job, which leather goods stores used to do sometimes. Without in-depth research, possibly into the Rolf company, it’s impossible to solve the mystery.

Take a look at the hardware. It’s heavy and attractive in it’s design. This wardrobe accessory will be a favorite for years! It’s compact, but with lots of little spaces to conceal important items . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

FABULOUS DISCOVERY! 1970’S GUNNE SAX PRAIRIE-STYLE FORMAL DRESS

What a great find! It’s always worth investigating; you just never know what evidence might be uncovered. A beautiful Gunne Sax gown, designed by Jessica San Francisco. Robin’s egg blue for Spring.

This frock was worn, probably once, to a formal event or, possibly, to a wedding. In the 1970’s, Prom and wedding-party dresses for young women often looked like this. Gunne Sax was a favorite label of the time and this prairie style was hugely popular. I wonder who cherished and stored her gown for 50 years . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

TEN YEARS LATER AND WE’RE BACK IN 1940’S – STYLE AGAIN

Hemlines down and waists nipped. It wasn’t a pure swing into wartime fashion but many of the similar features came back in the early 1970’s; midi hemlines, shoulder pads, jumpsuits, pastels, little sweaters with puffed sleeves, and platform shoes were really popular. It was 1940’s cutesy-style with a certain babyishness to a lot of the garments. That’s probably because many of these fashions were marketed mostly to teens and women below age 30. The dress above is pretty classic design, but the color scheme is just a hair too sweet from today’s viewpoint. And, of course, there’s the bra-less thing.

This would wind things up for a while, though I do have an investigation on the horizon. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

THE NEXT BIG CHANGE – HEMLINES AND SILHOUETTES

THE MINI AND THE TENT DRESS!!! In 1964, Mary Quant introduced them both in London. The tent style didn’t endure for a long time, but we know what happened with the mini-dress. Women were suddenly really FREE in this style. And, even though this particular one was more or les a fad, all bets were off in terms of where women’s style would go from here. (Star Trek was only 2 years in the future . . . . . .)

In the case of this example pictured on Stella, Quant’s revolutionary design captivated the minds of some women so much that even home-sewers attempted to duplicate it. In summer, 1964, this was a good way to stand out in a crowd in the U.S.. Oddly enough, it might’ve worked well as disguise material if you were posing as a mad, mod girl in Britain.

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

A COTTON SUMMER DRESS LOOK, EARLY 1960’S – STYLE

Once we get past the turn of the 1950’s to ’60’s decade, boy – do styles really start to change! This one is maybe a little more adventurous than the norm because it was custom-made. Compared to the dress from yesterday, the style is free and easy. There’s a V-neckline and fuller skirt though the below-knee hemline remains, but without stiff tailoring or crinoline layers underneath like so many of the Fifties frocks. The print, colors and belt say “Look at me!”.

Which, of course, makes the role very different for our agent in the field. No blending into the background this time, and the trend continues . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM