Tag Archives: women’s

EARLY 1990’S SILK SHIRT – HAS 20 YEARS IMPROVED ANYTHING?

Not really. Overall, this blouse is of a similar “smart casual” genre to the one I vetted yesterday so it will be valid to compare them. Let’s analyze the Pros and Cons. Any investigator worth her/his salt will be sure to do this before publishing a conclusion or collecting the evidence.

Again, what is the characteristic that makes the first impression? Same as before – an attractive print with beautiful, vibrant colors: The good quality silk fabric is a definite winner compared to the rather dodgy 1970’s polyester we saw yesterday. +1.

Brand labels: Cloth again, with embroidered information. All attached at the neckline – no potentially awkward tags in the side seams. The downside is that these tags are attached only at the top, making them potentially uncomfortable and in danger of showing above the collar. It’s still a virtually unrecognizable maker’s name, but that’s par for the course with most mid-priced clothing. No points here.

Design and styling: Boring and dependable early 1990’s details: Boxy cut, double breast pockets, holdover shoulder pads and epaulets from the 1980’s and 1970’s, sizing that expanded all out of proportion – this size 6 fits like a 1970’s size 12. The buttons are standard translucent white plastic (that was a missed opportunity). BUT, the shirt is reasonably well-made. You can see the even top-stitching on pockets and collar, the front closure, the sleeve cuffs and hem. Inside seams have standard stitching and overlock, but I don’t find any dangling threads. No blue ribbons, for sure, but I’ll give it a +1 over yesterday’s blouse.

So, the verdict is: A moderate improvement in overall quality, but still a mish-mash. If I were involved in a sleuthing endeavor, it would not be worth my time. So far, we’re 1 out of 3 worth the bother. Tomorrow we’ll go back to the 1970’s with two casual velour tops I discovered here – very, very similar, but comparison-worthy. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

Nothing fabulous, but SO EARLY ‘SEVENTIES!

I was hopeful at first – such a pretty, bright, abstract feather print. Even the maker’s label looked promising. “Mardi Modes New York”; embroidered cloth label, attached firmly at the neckline in the old folded style. There’s even an RN number, which makes the brand “legitimate”. But, in reality this blouse is stuck in that early 1970’s period which saw polyester becoming the fabric of choice for most garments. They worked their way from 1960’s Mod and casual clothing into the professional office and dressy venues. Some were made very well, up to earlier mid-century standards, but many were somewhere in-between or frankly cheap. In any case, I doubt you would have seen one in the boardroom, unless the boss’s secretary was present; but that’s another blog . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

The in-between level of quality is what we see in this example. Best features include: 1. The well-done brand label. 2. Artistic print on the fabric. 3. Pearlized buttons with stems. 4. A button under the bow-tie which improves the fit at the neckline. 5. A hand-finished hem. On the other hand, 1. The textile quality is just OK. 2. The blouse isn’t fitted well and doesn’t hold its shape. 3. The vents at the cuffs are very poorly finished (hardly finished at all).

So, the verdict is: Interesting, but disappointing. Let’s see if we can do better with a blouse of a similar genre that is the only outlier of the group, time-wise. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

A FABULOUS HISTORICAL SHIRT FIND WITH PERFECT, PERFECT TAILORING!

A super, surprise find of 5 dead stock tailored shirts from the British House, Michigan Avenue, Chicago, which permanently closed in 2016 after the company was unable to find a new buyer. Started in 1928 by several U.S. entrepreneurs, it was one of a group of stores located in high-end shopping areas in several major cities. This history of selling more or less elite merchandise is supported by the original tags on these shirts, which show a price of $121.50.

It’s so fun to find this little bit of fashion history but I couldn’t be more delighted for several reasons. The tailoring, as you would expect, is superb. Three of the shirts are 100% cotton and two are a 65-35 poly-cotton blend. At first glance, I expected them to have come from a Western-wear store so I’m not sure who copied whom when these styles were originated.

The next best things are the tailoring and fitting. They are exceptionally well-made but also have a wonderful fit that is very hard to find now. The design is casual but the fitting is uptown. Perfect on Stella (and me!).

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

A CUTE LITTLE HOME-SEWN COTTON CIRCLE SKIRT FROM THE MID-CENTURY

In an unexpected place, this was my first find. A full circle, this skirt is pure fun. From the carved button to the barbershop braid to the bright red tier it might have been worn with a peasant blouse in the 1940’s, the 1950’s or even the early 1960’s. Home-based seamstresses used to use notions from their stockpile of previous years, so the button, zipper, braid and even the fabric could have been from years before this garment was actually made BUT, all things considered, I place this skirt in the post-war 1940’s or early to mid-1950’s.

The length and tiny waist measurement (22″) back up this assessment. I had to get the zipper back on track, but otherwise perfect! A great start to my brief investigation, but there’s more to come . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

2 “NEW” FINDS COMING OVER THE CLOUD-WAVES SOON

This agent is currently pre-occupied with preparations for a temporary move of base camps. A relocation of operations must take place periodically, but cannot necessarily interrupt on-going sleuthing activity. Results of a recent impromptu investigation will be broadcast soon. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

A COTTON SUMMER DRESS LOOK, EARLY 1960’S – STYLE

Once we get past the turn of the 1950’s to ’60’s decade, boy – do styles really start to change! This one is maybe a little more adventurous than the norm because it was custom-made. Compared to the dress from yesterday, the style is free and easy. There’s a V-neckline and fuller skirt though the below-knee hemline remains, but without stiff tailoring or crinoline layers underneath like so many of the Fifties frocks. The print, colors and belt say “Look at me!”.

Which, of course, makes the role very different for our agent in the field. No blending into the background this time, and the trend continues . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

5 OR 10 YEARS (AT LEAST) BEFORE THE TIKI TORCHES, A 1950’S VERSION OF THE PATIO DRESS

A darling little sleeveless cotton day-dress could go to town, to the park or to tea in very proper style. It’s a little early yet for the State Fair or ice-cream socials but that’s where it really belongs. Polka dot prints and ric-rac trim were common in the 1950’s and, always, defined waistlines and belts. I’m still not quite ready for this, but there’s always the ever-popular cardigan sweater . . . . . .

Can’t get away from it – climate change with 80-degree days followed by 40 degrees today. See, the Universe loves us. It taught us all about packing to dress in layers for travel and now we have a new skill that can be used everyday, everywhere!

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

MAYBE A LITTLE BIT EARLY FOR THE TIKI TORCHES, BUT . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Good-bye coats! Patio enthusiasts will be hauling out the grill about now. Stella is decked out in her oh-so-fashionable vintage lounging dress from Henri Bendel, by a specialty maker. Love the color combo – very distinctive.

Not much cover for wearing a wire here, but a thigh holster can easily conceal a tape measure, cellphone, lock-pick and other small tools of the trade. As long as there’s a big bush or a garden shed to step behind, she’s set. Of course, an indoor party would be a cinch.

No, I’m not suggesting break-and-enter or other similar crimes. However, during an investigation in an unfamiliar locale there are many times when a photo, measurement or even a GPS locater can come in handy. Occasionally, this agent has encountered old locked boxes, as well. You just never know . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

CAN’T BELIEVE THIS WEATHER! TIME TO ADJUST THE GAME-PLAN . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

It’s just so crazy – suddenly WHOOMPH! we’re in patio-days temperatures. We went from no visible leaves to a forest of green within 1 week. I’m not complaining, but my plans to vet the “summer” evidence file got moved way ahead. An investigator always must be prepared for an unexpected change of plan. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

NOT TO BE OUTDONE, EVEN BY THEMSELVES, 1960’S KNITTING STARS TOOK ON MAKING THEIR OWN SPRING COATS

Harking back to 1950’s styles, or with Swiss, Italian and British style inspiration and yarns, intrepid needlecrafters went for it. In the spirit of Jacqueline Kennedy’s famous cloth coats in elegant designs by Oleg Cassini, home-knitters made coats with European and designer style. Even the two white Fifties-inspired designs at top were au courant with an open front or cruelty-free collar which looks like an animal skin (although we know that wool, including knitting yarn, IS fur and is NOT cruelty-free).

I especially like the cape with matching skirt and high-neck sweater. Worthy of Sherlock Holmes, himself, with it’s identity-concealing, equipment-hiding capabilities. A sleuth can swan around undercover, looking like a brainless fashion-plate . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM