Category Archives: Uncategorized

TRUE VINTAGE POST-WAR SWEATER-DRESS? YES, APPARENTLY SO . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Who would have thought? Until the mother of a friend gave me a 2-piece sweater-dress that she had made for herself in 1952, I never would have guessed it. That dress was a day-dress, whereas this one is dressy. It may even be from the 1940’s. It is hand-knitted from some kind of heavy synthetic yarn, which would make sense for that time period.

Previously, I would never have expected to see something like this before the 1960’s. It just goes to show that there is always more to learn and that clues often come from unexpected sources . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

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GORGEOUS 1950’S SILK FROCK BY JEANNE D’ARC

Beautifully-tailored, this dress is a perfect example of the quality and exceptional tailoring that was commonly found on mid-century clothing. This was often true even on mid-priced items. Bargain buys were generally well-made, too. Aside from pretty details, excellent cut and fitting seen in clothing from this time, strap holders have always been a favorite find of mine. What could be more practical?

Something else to love is strategically-placed hooks & eyes or snaps. These enhance the fit and protect the garment by preventing gaps or strains on places that had to withstand extra pressure, like the tops of zippers, necklines and waists. Therefore, the clothing always looks better when worn and lasts longer. Today you can buy online a plastic clip that will hold some straps together in back to keep them from falling down your arm, but that does nothing to prevent them from showing in a wide neckline. Nothing is simpler or more elegant than tailoring details which are part of the design.

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

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FEBRUARY AND MARCH – THE TRADITIONAL TIMES TO TAKE AN OVERSEAS HOLIDAY. . . . . . . . . . . . . .

As winter begins to wind up and we’re past all of the holiday planning and fatigue, it’s been customary to think about spending a week or two overseas – probably in a place which is warm and sunny, and maybe just a little bit exotic. Back in the day, it was possible to find specialty shops and private seamstresses in those locations who would custom-tailor a traditional outfit in the local style. What better way for our investigating heroine to blend in with the tourists and locals in the Hawaii of the 1950’s?

In beautiful printed fabric with exceptional drape, this dress is well-tailored but also casual and perfect for daytime wear (just always be careful of the train . . . . . . . .). OK, a bit impractical but just right for enjoying the island life while visiting Honolulu. Adding a hint of mystery is the fact that this frock has no maker’s label. Truly, that could have been removed for comfort reasons, but I suspect that the dress was made specifically for the agent who wore it and possibly by a private tailor. Makes you wonder what she was up to . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

CAN’T FINISH UP THESE VINTAGE 1960’S WEDDING STYLES WITHOUT GIVING A NOD TO THE HIPPIES

This one is cotton, and no use wearing a bra. Stella should have her hair down long and no shoes on. I honestly don’t know if this dress was ever worn at a wedding but, like with the mini-dress shown a few days ago, the fashion rules in the late 1960’s were up for grabs and some women decided to breach them entirely. Strands of long beads and flowers in her hair would do the job, whether at a chapel or on the streets of San Francisco. Not sure if she could get into a church without at least putting a slip on.

Anyway, that’s the last of the wedding archive for now. It’s been a chore sorting through that big file for all those heavy frocks and I’m going to take a break, at least for a few days. Something lighter next – maybe some jewelry . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

OKAY, LET’S GO COMPLETELY DIFFERENT (AGAIN) FOR ANOTHER 1960’S WEDDING(?)

Now we’re Prairie – Victorian, or some combination of the 1800s. Empire waistlines were in style earlier in that century and high necklines with tight sleeves mostly in the 1890’s. The late 1960’s and early 1970’s fell in love with the 1800’s fashion. Think early Gunne Sax. This was especially true for white cotton lingerie undergarments, sleepwear and casual clothing but also spilled over into some day dresses and formals. In this case, a white structured gown was likely meant for a wedding or, at the least, some kind of formal occasion

This one is all 20th century fad fashion, with a zip up the back and polyester fabric. But, it was fun while the trend lasted. Not the best disguise, however, unless you’re in the theater . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

NOW, AS WE HEAD INTO THE LATE 1960’S, THE CHANGES IN WEDDING STYLE ARE WELL-ROOTED

This is where we step into Boho/Prairie/Victorian/Edwardian-style territory, which held on for almost 10 years. Although there are some general similarities between this dress and the one shown yesterday, they are completely different. Let’s compare – aside from the white color, lace and good tailoring (it’s got a full lining and a good cut), this cotton blend dress is perfectly casual. No real Princess deal going on here. But, it’s not full-on hippie style, either. It could easily be wedding/Prom/patio party of that time, when mainstream fashion was trying to be rebellious of the status quo but not always succeeding.

Although haute couture always tries, it was not an elegant era; However, a very successful way to blend into the crowd, which is a valuable asset to the sleuthing trade. A garment like this is quite useful to keep handy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

MID-1960’S WEDDING – PATIO – HOSTESS GOWN. THINGS WERE CHANGING PRETTY RADICALLY BACK THEN, TOO, AND UNPREDICTABLE

Although there were some radical fashion changes in the 1920’s and 1930’s when women’s clothing styles went edgy for a few years and a lot of necessary changes because of the Depression and wartime restrictions of the ’30’s and 1940’s, the relative peace and prosperity of the 1950’s saw bridal styles snap back into the traditional Princess mode. Then, in the 1960’s, people had some trouble deciding how they wanted things to be, so mid-Sixties trends were all over the place.

Though definitely headed in the non-traditional direction, this gown by a minor-league designer sticks to the standard of careful tailoring and hangs on to the style elements we’d been used to seeing like lace, bows and tiny covered buttons. It’s made of a high quality linen-like fabric. But, unlike the usual wedding designs, this one doesn’t scream WEDDING DRESS at first glance, as most designs always did before the 1960’s.

I suspect that this frock was meant primarily to be for a wedding, but our heroine could get away with it at a swanky party or even lounging by the pool on a weekend. The real clues to break the case would probably not be revealed until a trip to the dry-cleaners or a forensics lab – when and where did she drink that Martini? and those tiny traces of blood? . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

LET’S MOVE FORWARD A COUPLE OF YEARS AND SEE WHAT AN EARLY 1960’S BRIDE MIGHT WEAR

Although full skirts were still seen on wedding gowns in the early 1960’s (and probably always will be), narrower skirts and differently-styled bodices began to show up more often. Society was beginning the overthrow of traditional ways of doing things. Especially after Americans’ and the world’s hearts were shattered by the murder of our King Arthur in 1963, all bets were off and the Mod fashion revolution began.

I somehow doubt that the Kelly Arden mini-dress on right was intended as a wedding frock, but it could have been – even with the contrasting buttons and sash. Grandma would have been scandalized and all but the most fashionista of mom’s wouldn’t have liked it, either. That would have been a powerful clue to the identity of the mystery bride . . . . . . .a closet revolutionary. Not surprisingly, the anti-establishment trend continued as the files further reveal. Stay tuned. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

TWO PRETTY GOWNS FROM THE KENNEDY ERA – AMERICA WAS DEEP INTO THE CAMELOT DREAM

These dresses are very similarly designed, from right around a couple of years either side of 1960. Although they both reflect the New Look changeover which had begun 10 years before, the most notable thing about the style on the left is the shoulder tails. These had been popular on dresses in the 1930’s and earlier, I believe, but made another appearance right around this time. That element changes this garment from a Prom dress into what I suspect was meant for a wedding. The sparkly sequined cummerbund cements the dressy deal.

On the right, our heroine is either a Bridesmaid, Matron of Honor or a bride herself for the second (or 3rd or 4th . . . . . . . . . . . . . .) time. This style has more of the 1940’s elements we’ve seen before, though I still believe that it is newer than that. The sleeves are a clue. However, it was custom-tailored so there is always the element of mystery involved. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

ANOTHER MYSTERY GOWN AND A NON-TRADITIONAL IDEA

Two fabulous clues that I was never able to fit exactly into place. It’s pretty clear that they both originated somewhere between 1946 and 1962. The investigations they might have clinched have long-since been solved or placed into the dead file. At any rate, it’s clear that, if not a wedding, some gala event and prominent characters were involved.

Before my time, but would make great bases for a story. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM