For a little relief from these wool coats, thought I’d show you one of my favorite discoveries. This pretty confection contains a lot of evidence and the case is closed. I’d love to keep it but it also takes up too much space in the file locker. Three layers of skirt plus boning in the bodice make it a bit awkward to store compactly! Since I won’t be going to the Prom this year . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY
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This wool beauty has a label which says “The Parisian”. It has a true silk lining and very stylish design. No fear of using some extra fabric here. And, of course, great pockets. This one just says “Lady of leisure” . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ..
MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY
BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM
This is a casual coat from post-WWII mid-century that closes with one hidden button and loop at the waistline. It’s got specialized tailoring details that are my favorite part. The wool fabric is a great “tweed” with fall colors, so a good choice for September. The brown lining is shiny and silky but it’s also got a decorative border above the hem that is embroidered in glossy brown thread. Hidden, but pretty!
See above how the pockets are accented with fabric-covered buckles that don’t do anything but look smart. Unfortunately, the pockets are only deep enough for a tissue or a small coin-purse, but that’s OK. I’ll enjoy wearing it on walks and I can still stop at the corner store. The neckline area, just above the collarbones, is accented with tabs and buttons which also don’t do anything but look stylish. And, the back vent in the hemline is practical but adds the look of good design. A winner!
MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY
BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM
Despite the uptown appearance, this coat is made of humble fabric but expertly done. Not sure when it was created – could be anywhere from the 1940’s to the very early 1960’s – but it follows the pattern of economy that my recent posts have been showing. However, though it has no labels, I suspect that it was not made at home but was made commercially. It is really well-done and beautifully-designed with seaming that gives it a special fit and flare shape. It’s still got great shoulders, too.
And, of course, the hip pockets that are so important and useful on a good coat. The best ones are made like these last three I’ve shown which hide the pockets so well in the design that they are almost invisible.
MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY
BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM
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Isn’t this cute? If it was home-sewn, I can just imagine the fun that the seamstress had in creating this set. Whether or not it was made during a time of widespread economic austerity or not, it continues with the theme of coats made with economy in mind. It is beautifully-made but the fabrics, on close examination, are not top-of-the-line. I expect that the maker picked the fabric to reflect colors that she particularly liked or were flattering to her if, in fact, she had much choice.
In any case, it is a bit unusual. Not your common classic neutral brown, black, navy or beige. If you look closely, it’s a faux tweed weave of robin’s egg blue and raspberry tones. Of course, there’s a silky liner made of rayon or other synthetic. I always love shell buttons. The vintage ones are very beautiful – some are carved. These are plain, but huge with the iridescence of abalone shell. And, very practically, it’s got fabulous deep pockets. A real plus is the matching hat – occasionally, but rarely found.
That’s what makes this so much fun! HAPPY NEW YEAR!!
MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY
BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM
Today I’m right in the middle of a big vetting of the archive files from sweaters to fur coats. This morning I parted with a beautiful 1960’s sweater, which was wrenching. But, there eventually comes a time when all the intelligence must go public and the vault must be reorganized and cleaned. You’ll be seeing more of this class of intel over the next few days, with more bits and pieces to come later. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY
BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM
This is a real-deal wartime garment, illustrating some of the rationing which was taking place in the early to mid-1940’s. Shorter length, fabric that is a mystery rather than pure wool and no metal used for buttons or buckles. In fact, no buttons or buckles at all. Made by a Garment Workers Union without a brand name, this coat was made to satisfy the needs and tastes of women while citizens of the U.S. and others across the world were all making do with restricted availability of materials needed to support the war effort.
Garment designers and workers did their tailoring best with great success. As always, our ability to rise to the occasion with ingenuity produced a garment that served the need in iconic style. What you don’t see in these photos is some interesting seaming on the shoulders and a beautiful silky lining. Another fave . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY
BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM
The pair on top, with the vamp decoration, alas was too small for me. But, this second pair goes so well with my wartime and mid-century day and house dresses. I love wearing them all the time. Even love the brand name: Vitality!
So cute. Both these pairs are examples of economical footwear of the time with leather or composite soles and man-made uppers. In spite of the cheaper construction, however, they last and last – unlike many products for sale today. Hope we’re going back in that direction. Too much cheap clothing and accessories in the landfills.
No doom & gloom here. Things look good from behind-the-scenes. Happy Holidays and looking forward to a fabulous 2023!
MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY
BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM
Though I certainly couldn’t wear it, how could I pass up this beautiful, iconic men’s outerwear when I discovered it? It’s not vegan, with a shell made from wool and leather but, for it’s time, it’s a wonderful garment worth saving. A casual style with impeccable tailoring. So 1950’s – early 1960’s . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY
BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM
Though it’s an iconic mid-1940’s style, the dress looks a little plain, eh? But, it’s got beautiful tailoring and a couple of really neat 1940’s style features that aren’t often found anymore. One is a true 1940’s Talon metal zipper. The second is zipper vents at the wrists. Skinny sleeves like these required it for easy dressing and the intended slim, slim fit.
MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY
BLOG: MAGICVITAGESPY.COM
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