Another of my recent Discoveries – a 1940’s Repro day-dress!

Love it, love it, love it so much! Believe it or not, this is the 5th cotton dress I’ve found over time – in the same place, made from the same pattern, probably by the same person. I’m thrilled to find another one. The fabrics and buttons are such high quality and the pattern fits me to a “T”. So flattering. So fun!

I’m guessing that this pattern is an authentic design from the mid-1940’s, with a wartime shorter hemline and, always, shoulder pads. Would love to know it’s history – did it belong to someone’s mom or grandmother once or was it purchased as a re-issue of the original? Original patterns from decades past are being re-issued by the original companies (I know that Vogue Patterns has done this) and, while pricey, they’re worth it. Love seamstresses who have the skills to reproduce vintage styles with accuracy and excellent tailoring.

Eyes open, always. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

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Another “New” Find – Mid-century Fringed Western-wear Jacket

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This one’s been well-loved and worn, but excepting the fringe it’s in good vintage condition. So iconic that I couldn’t resist picking it up. Lots of clues here, and I was also able to speak to a witness who provided additional information.

First clue: Always look for the origin. I researched this Western-wear label and it seems that the store no longer exists. No surprise after 60 or 70 years but this may not always be the case. The way that the label is made also gives me information about it’s age. However, be alert to copycats on more modern items. Second clue: scope out anything that may not have been original (added decoration, changed buttons, zip replacement, mending, etc.). Each one of these features can fill out the story to a remarkable degree. Third clue: Look at signs of wear or damage – they also can tell a story.

What I have learned about this garment by investigating as above: 1. It was purchased in the 1950’s or 1960’s. 2. The store may have been part of a chain rather than a single entity. Part of this conclusion comes from investigation of the label itself and also from the quality of the garment – very good, but not the best I’ve seen. 3. The beads are not original. This conclusion was affirmed by the witness who offered a statement. 4. The original owner, now deceased, took good care of her coat but wasn’t always careful. The inside is virtually pristine but there are a few light spots on the outside which had not been cleaned and significant damage to the fringe. Part of this damage is inevitable due to the age of the leather but also looks accidental. I wonder if repeated seatbelt use without care may have caused this.

This person was also the one who got married in the eyelet dress which I showed a couple of days ago. It looks like there was a change in her size during the time between acquiring these two garments, so that’s another clue as to the ages of the garment and owner and the eras during which it was worn.

How fun! I hope that you enjoyed this little journey through an investigation. There will be more, so stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

Stuck in the 1940’s. Let’s move forward a couple of years . . . . . . . . . . ..

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Here’s one of my wartime Utility Suits. They were called this because they were made in a very basic way – without expensive notions, simple design and conserving on fabric by making hems shorter. This was a way of supporting the war effort so that metal, wool and silk (plus certain other things) could be conserved for making equipment, parachutes and uniforms. Women wore these less-expensive costumes to save money and as a demonstration of their patriotic duty. This example was still made with excellent tailoring and good quality wool gabardine.

I said good-bye to her yesterday (sob) but I still have so many beautiful post-war and early 1950’s skirt suits. Somethin’s gotta give . . . . . . . . . . . … The archive clean-out and new discoveries go on, so stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

New Find – Custom-tailored Eyelet Wedding Dress from 1940

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What a fabulous discovery! I was able to get the history of this frock directly from her daughter. Mom was married in 1940 and this was her gown. The only addition on that day, as far as I know, was a ribbon belt. Not sure if she ever wanted to let this dress do double duty in the summer, but it certainly could have.

Although women got married in satin and lace in the 1940’s, so many women of that era were much more practical and, if necessary, frugal. The wartime restrictions and rationing made that almost inevitable for everyone but the wealthy. However, lots of women – even before the war – were opting for a more “modern” solution, wearing suits and daily-wear to be married. The Depression, which had just wound down, was surely a big influence. My own grandmother, also in 1940 and from “by your bootstraps” parents, opted for a suit that had an ocelot jacket (horrors!). I can only guess that this was to show that Mother and Daddy were making it (in a relatively modest way) after all.

What an interesting time that was. In the Sixties and Seventies there was a return to simplicity and budget-wise trends. Then we saw the Dynasty decade where glitz and glamor went over-the-top again. Now we’re just opting for big is better and planning on a wedding that costs several thousand dollars but, fortunately, like with fashion today, it’s OK to do whatever you want. I opted for a retired judge and one witness.

So, this is just one of the new additions and archived finds that are making their way onto the blog. Most, though not all, are going on eBay, too. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ..

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

I’m So Excited!

Just discovered 4 true vintage WWII and Mid-century clues! And, the evidence has been preserved in excellent condition. Will continue to post the facts, old and new. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

True Vintage Skirts 1950’s to 1990’s – maybe my last LOT, for a while . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Tartan, pencil, straight, A-line, tiered, crocheted, gathered, pleated, wrap – just about every option covered. Handmade, custom-tailored to famous maker, woven cotton to wool boucle’. The pictures say it all, pretty much. The 1950’s cotton skirt has been to quite a few state fairs and parties, but all the others seem to have spent lots of time hanging out in well-organized closets.

It’s groups like this that have many, many stories to tell. It’s always fun to look for the clues . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

Cleaning Out the Archives Means LOTS of Stuff!

It’s so easy to accumulate many, many accessory items in your wardrobe and that goes doubly for a true vintage collection! Once in a while, I have to go through the drawers, shelves and the closet to select a few to part with. It’s a painful process, because I love them all, but gotta be done.

Here are three near-perfect men’s hats from the mid-century which I do not wear, but couldn’t pass up when they appeared. Time to let them go and Autumn, with Halloween looming, is the best season. So stylish and well-made. These are the qualities I appreciate most.

Leather, crocheted and beaded purses from1940’s to the 1960’s or ’70’s also have to go. Handmade or made in British Hong Kong – don’t know the maker of the red leather bag, but she’s a beauty. Clean as a whistle and look at that suede leather interior with a little matching coin purse! The navy blue crocheted bag is also notable because the maker put stiffening inside to create 3 inside pockets. Very unusual for a bag of this kind.

So, that’s my sentimental story for today but I’m still vetting Headquarters. Stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ..

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

Going Through My LARGE Vintage Costume Jewelry Collection

I just love going through my collections of true vintage fashion, even when it means sorting out some things to let go of. Big brooches are wonderful on a coat, purse, or whatever. The expandable construction of this red, white and blue cuff bracelet is genius. So hard to find anything this well-made now.

That also goes for the big lot I recently sold, pictured top left. It included a brooch and earring set from 1940 which had been made from actual geranium leaves, preserved and gilded with copper. Jewelry from that Depression/World War Two era was often quite unique and ingeniously made. It was a family piece which had the original owner’s notes written on the perfume box that she stored it in. Everything else in the bunch would have had an interesting story, too.

Anyway, I have to condense once in a while to the things I love best and have wardrobe items to wear them with. Practicality, pooh! Oh, well. I’ll continue to post items from my vetting efforts and you just never know, so stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

TRUE VINTAGE MID-CENTURY CLASSIC CAR COAT STADIUM COAT

Here’s a classic long jacket style which used to be known by the names above, back in the day. Mid-thigh length, a hood and plaid lining was standard style for a “stadium coat”, just in time for being a spectator at Autumn football games. I love the wool fabric, Union-made construction, toggle closures, detachable hood and big patch pockets. Fashionbilt was an iconic coat manufacturer that could always be counted on to produce quality garments from its founding in the 1920’s until closure in 1993. I have had several Fashionbilt coats and particularly cherish a black swing coat with rhinestone buttons which was owned by my grandmother.

This version was made to those specifications in about the 1970’s. It’s survived this far with only some slight tarnish on the metal toggles. That’s superior for an everyday coat. I rest my case . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM

Car Coat weather! Here’s an example from 1950’s – early 1960’s

Here’s Stella in a beautiful example of casual tailored coats of this mid-century era. Soft suede leather with a lightweight acetate or rayon liner. Perfect for early autumn. Popular coats of this era upped the elegance ante with a mink collar. I have several of those. Some collars were removeable, some convertible with a fur hook closure.

This more casual style is good with skirts or pants, dressed up or down with a scarf or jeans. Big hip pockets are practical and just a stylish look. The iconic element of this style is the bracelet-length of the sleeves, which makes a longer pair of gloves essential for the perfect chic and allows you to show off jewelry even before you take off your coat.

Jewelry – especially the costume type – was a really prominent element of mid-century style so showing off a statement bracelet over your gloves would be really fun and eye-catching. Too bad we rarely see these types of elegant design elements in mid-priced clothing now. One reason why wearing true vintage is the best! More to come – stay tuned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

MORGANA MARTIN, THE MAGICVINTAGESPY

BLOG: MAGICVINTAGESPY.COM